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Thread: raked ceiling cornice advice
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26th February 2008, 07:15 PM #1
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- Jun 2007
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- Albany, WA
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raked ceiling cornice advice
G'day folks,
I've got a couple of rooms that i'm trying to cornice with boral manly cove and i'm having a 'little' trouble with the mitres. I've searched Rod's on-line bible for all things plasterboard related to no avail.
I was thinking about plumb cutting and fitting the rakes first and then scribing, butting as close as possible and filling the horizontal sections with a little sculpting artistry.
Another theory is to try and eyeball with ceiling pitch and then cut the mitre with some scraps (yes there is plenty being created).
Any previous experience or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Paul
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26th February 2008, 11:03 PM #2
quality + reliability
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- Jul 2006
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- Melbourne
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Hi Dodgeit&legit, I guess I will have to put something up sometime.
The answer to your question is really quite easy. You cut the cornice exactly as you would if the ceiling were flat.
Take a couple of off cuts and test it out. Cut opposing miters on each piece then hold them up and match them in the corners. Mark a pencil line under each side when you have the miters matched perfectly. Then use a chaulk line to mark corner to corner.
What you will find is that the cornice will be "rolled up" at the apex and "rolled down" at the bottom. This will mean you will need to fill a larger gap between the wall at the bottom than the top and sides.
The cornice sits on the ceiling exactly as it would if the ceiling is flat. the difference is on the walls. There is no other way!!!!
The very first job that I priced and took on as a 2nd year apprentice had raked ceiling with cornice. I had never done one and had no idea how to do it. I tried scribing mitres etc. Then when all attempts failed I had to ask my boss how to do it letting him know that I had taken on a "weekender" in the process. It was a lesson I have never forgotten!!
Using the chaulkline and a few nails along the line on the ceiling will help you position the cornice for perfect mitres. It helps to put the sides up to the line first then each end, this makes it easier to align the mitres.
All the best
RodGreat plastering tips at
www.how2plaster.com
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2nd March 2008, 11:04 AM #3
New Member
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- Jun 2007
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- Albany, WA
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muchas gracias
Thanks Rod
,
I'll give it a shot as suggested - i still feel some sculpting coming on.
I'll try and get some pics once (if) i finish.
Ta
Paul
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2nd March 2008, 11:15 AM #4
quality + reliability
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 675
Dodgeit, If you follow exactly what I have said you will need no "sculpting" the mitres will fit perfectly.
Great plastering tips at
www.how2plaster.com
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2nd March 2008, 12:44 PM #5"weekender"c2=a2+b2;
When buildings made with lime are subjected to small movements thay are more likely to develop many fine cracks than the individual large cracks which occur in stiffer cement-bound buildings. Water penetration can dissolve the 'free' lime and transport it. As the water evaporates, this lime is deposited and begins to heal the cracks. This process is called autogenous healing.
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