some help with my WR cedar.... again

[Shannon]

Posted part of this in another section this arvo, but thought finishing section would be better, if you have read it I apolagise.

Story briefly:
Bought an 850 X 450 X 30 ish slab of western red cedar at sydney WWW show.
Sillily left in the boot overnight causing a crack.
Posted and received excellent help in stopping crack getting bigger - paint edges, clamp, see how it goes. Worked well, closed it up a fair bit.

Little while ago decided it was time to finish the project, so cut it down to correct size and squared it up (only had to take 40 - 50mm of side with crack in it and about 10 - 20mm off other side from memory)

Found that various clampings that went on during all of this - accompanied by the fact that I cut off the painted edges - meant that the crack has opened somewhat You will see in the pictures posted below.

Help time!
1/ I would like to hide the crack - maybe not the end crack so much as the top. It is about 85mm long, quite thin though. Some advise on filling would be gratefully appreciated. I was thinking of wood filler, combined with some of the wooddust from sanding. I have not done anything like this before though so am I on the right track? BTW not too keen on ripping and rejoining if I can help it, but if that is what it takes then so be it.

2/ From a finishing point of view, I have spoken to Neil and he has suggested some grain filler, then white shellac followed by EEE
Have never used grain filler before. Any tips other than what is on the tin? It says use a hessian cloth, I have only got rags (t shirts teatowls etc) is hessian necassary and if so can I pick it up at the hardware, or do I go somewhere else? Also is 400 grit on the ROS fine enough considering I am using grain filler, or should I go higher?

4/ Last one for the moment I promise!!! Bought a brand new 45 router bit to put a small champher on the edges. The endgrain ones burnt in places. Does this mean I was going too slow? Does endgrain get affected differently? Would I make sure the endgrain is sanded properly before I put the champher on - to stop it being eaten away during sanding?

Thanks so much for your info.
Cherrio.

[Harry72]

Some epoxy will hold it and stop it cracking any further, filler wont.
Whats the slab for, coffee table?

[Shannon]

Thanks Harry72,

Am I able to tint the epoxy so that it matches the wood which sawdust, or does that weaken the bond?
If I just expoxy it this will mean you can see the crack won't it?

The slab is for the top of a shoe rack that I have built for our entrance. Wanted to give a stained pine carcass a bit of up and go

I tell you though with a wife and a nearly 3yo daughter, I don't really get a look in on the rack and I need to build another one already!

[Harry72]

They say you can tint the epoxy with saw dust from the piece, I havent done this myself(saw dust tint)but I sure it'll work. Make the saw dust with fine paper so its like talc powder, Im unsure wether you sprinkle the saw dust on top or mix it into the epoxy before applying it.
When you go to fill it up put some duct tape on the underside and on the side of the slab to act as a resivor, otherwise it will just run out of the crack.
When you buy the epoxy make sure you get some slow hardener, it'll allow you to top it up as it will soak in a little in the surrounding wood after a few minutes(may need a few top ups).
Once set(at least 24hrs@ 25°C)use a card scraper to flatten it off back to the surface of the wood(could use the side of a steel rule...), do not use coarse sand paper as it will leave deep hard to remove scratches!