Cleaning & Restoring Teak Veneer

[claypot]

What is the best way to clean and restore the surface of teak veneer? I have a table, chairs and sideboards that have not been oiled in a very long time. The table surface is in fairly good condition apart from a few spots that look like water marks. However it is quite dark and dirty looking compared to the extension leaves that are usually kept "closed" unless in use. I'm quite new at this so have little idea of products or processes. Advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Keith J]

I've restored quite a few Teak dining suites (Chiswell, Parker etc) over the years.

If it has the original finish they come up looking new after being stripped with Acetone.

Good luck...
Keith

[claypot]

Thanks Keith. My furniture is Chiswell from the 70's. Nothing has been done to it apart from oiling with teak oil - although that has not been done for a long time either. Can you provide a little more detail about the stripping with acetone process please? Also, any further treatment after it is stripped? Some other sites were suggesting sanding with very fine (400?) sandpaper. Can you comment on this please. I appreciate any advice you can provide.

[Keith J]

You will need a well ventilated area or something to prevent breathing the fumes, I use an air supplied respirator.

Wear gloves and avoid getting it on you if possible.

I use 000 or 0000 steel wool dipped in acetone to melt the finish, it's very fast but evaporates fast as well so work on an area that you can keep wet.

Wipe the area off with a clean rag while the area is flooded.

Continue until the piece is finished, you will then have to go over the piece again and try to wet the whole piece and wipe off with the grain from one edge to the other.(don't skimp with acetone)

Most of these suites are extension tables making the pieces small enough to handle. (Three or four piece tops)

You should see a huge difference at this stage a very light sand with 320 - 400grit paper if you think it necessary and then finish with your choice of finishes.

Unless the customer prefers something else I finish these with a two pack Acid Cat lacquer. Very durable and resistant to chemicals (beer, wine spirits and boiling water)

I made this table finished in Acid Cat nearly 15 years ago and it still looks good after a hard life.

As far as 'sanding with very fine (400?) sandpaper' goes I really doubt that the person who suggested it has tried it, have a go yourself and you will see what I mean.

Cheers
Keith

[claypot]

Thanks again Keith, Sorry I haven't replied sooner - I've had some health issues.
The previous information referred to 400 grit paper and it came from another website - before I found this one.

Thanks also for the photo; it's very impressive. I will apply your advice and hope I can produce a good result. Is acetone readily available in "large" quantities (and if so , where from)? I know it only as nail polish remover in small bottles. I have never heard of Acid Cat lacquer; would hardware stores stock it? Does it affect the colour of the teak?

I really am an absolute novice at this, but willing to learn. Thanks for your help.

[Keith J]

The last time I was at Bunnings four litres of Acetone was around $38.

I have been using Acid Cat since it first came out three name changes ago (around 20 years) which is a Wattyl product.

I have recently found out that Wattyl have been bought out, I think by an American company and they have stopped selling Acid Cat (and some other products) in small tins, 20lts is the smallest available now.

I will be looking at other brands next time. Mirotone, Pylon and Ameron (could be others) all sell acid cats and are probably cheaper as well.

I'm sure their are many other finishes that would give good results for this job, it's just that I know Acid Cat has always worked for me.

I haven't found any lacquer that changes the colour of timber, but timber will change colour with age and the amount of exposure to sun light.

If you sand too hard in an area you will expose the new timber under the aged colour (which is very thin) and end up with a mottled look so after stripping, sand very lightly with fine grit paper or not at all if possible.

Hope you're feeling better.
Keith

[claypot]

Hi Keith, Thanks again for the information. I have been making some enquiries and have found a company in Smithfield (suburb in Sydney west - not sure where you are located) called BC Coatings that sell many paint products including acid cat in 4L cans. I think they also sell on line, if that is any help to you. [url=http://www.bccoatings.com.au]

I'm not sure when I'm going to get around to trying the restoration as I have a lot going on at the moment, but it is certainly something I want to have a go at as soon as I can manage it.

Thanks for your good wishes and for all the advice