Thanks: 1
Likes: 5
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 2
Results 1 to 11 of 11
Thread: 36inch L.S.Barker Bandsaw
-
7th July 2020, 10:46 AM #1
36inch L.S.Barker Bandsaw
Hey Guys,
Over the weekend I purchased a 36inch LS Barker bandsaw. It came from a guy who had let the previous owner (PO) leave it in the shed when he purchased the property as they were mates and there was already an insane amount of stuff to move (This was a farming property). The PO had run a saw mill in Nowra and used it to resaw lumber at times.
2ce757d4-9582-4e3f-a408-ac8496a43f09.jpg
Back.jpg
The machine was is in great condition with no broken parts and no real rust at all, just a layer of grime. The PO had the wheels re-rubbered then not used the machine really, so they are in great condition. One questions, do these need to be crowned? As they look flat.
9fb27d13-df1f-4240-9c69-1800e20d2205.jpg
The current owner used a backhoe to move the bandsaw, which scary when he used a chain to to drag it away from the wall, up a small off-camber section of concrete, then a 180 turn and then out the door. But he did it perfectly. We then used slings to lift the bandsaw into my trailer.
6512f472-2d81-4cca-8154-9628e4eefbcd.jpg
The issues came for me during towing as we planned to stay a few nights in kangaroo valley, this meant long climbs at slow speed and my unfortunately automatic gearbox couldn't keep the heat down. Culminating in a 3 hour journey becoming an 8 hour journey to get the saw back to the central coast due to persistent overheating issues. Will have to look into an additional transmission cooler.
The saw has the L.S.Barker cast name in cursive script on the back side of the machine just above the motor pulley. Along with the following McPhearsons tag.
f002a425-6bd7-4427-819c-28cc459035d9.jpg
fc36be25-acfa-4516-98af-696e88770c36.jpg
From my reading of other pots on here this would place it in the 40's?
The bandsaw is currently 3 phase with an old 3hp motor on it, with a well made metal pulley cover. It has a large junction box attached the motor from which a standard on off switch come as well as an emergency off button that was attached to the front of the table. Currently deciding whether to replace with a single phase motor. Though I am hoping to get 3 phase service to where I am moving later in the year so might hold out.
dbe374bd-5cb2-44fd-8224-db1ed6864be6.jpg
18f36ea0-f63a-4709-9fea-4377792d1221.jpg
There is also switch in the system I am unsure off, it is between the motor and large switch box wiring.
328f3088-3228-436d-9342-257df5aabe70.jpg
It has what I believe are the original upper and lower guides, and they are in decent condition. But will need a cleanup. Do people have good results with these guides? As a really nice set of guides for maximum resaw performance is defiantly on the cards.
3c18ce12-26de-4de6-93bc-bf7371ae537c.jpg
Thanks to all the forum members who have been of assistance as well as the massive knowledge base old threads provide. Very keen to get this saw up and running. I plan to use it to cut up bowl blanks for turning and saw/resaw logs and thick boards.
Thanks,
Tom
-
7th July 2020, 11:30 AM #2GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
- Location
- Little River
- Age
- 78
- Posts
- 1,157
If that switch is between the motor and the big box it is probably an isolating switch to ensure that the machine can't start unexpectedly, like when you are changing the blade.
The fact that the knob is missing may be that it was used as a safety switch if there were kids around.
-
7th July 2020, 11:58 AM #3
Ah thanks for that, makes sense.
-
7th July 2020, 01:19 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Mar 2018
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 1,091
for a machine like that I'd be opting to look for a VFD solution, so you get a slower, more controlled start up
-
8th July 2020, 08:13 PM #5
Nice saw. I don't know much about Barker gear (not much of it crossed the Tasman), but I believe it's good quality and rock solid.
A wheel doesn't need much crowning to work. I'd try it as is - and you'll soon know whether it has enough.
I like the steel conduit and the square nuts - a touch of yesteryear. Though I'd be considering the condition of the wires inside the conduit in case they are in poor condition. You can pull new wires through using the old ones as pull wires. If you decide to stick with the conduit, but need to make some mods, let me know if I can help - I've now gathered a few BS Conduit fittings, as I like to reuse the old steel conduit on my machines.
I'd stick with 3-phase if you can hold out until you have it installed. It's just simpler. If you go for a VFD most of your existing switches and contactors will become redundant (but you can keep them for looks if you're into that). Personally I wouldn't bother with a VFD for a bandsaw - but that's your choice.
Those blade guards don't do much for the appearance - but it's hard to make something that does the job without detracting from the looks (which is why I've left my guards off for now - something I can only get away with in a one man hobby shop).
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
-
9th July 2020, 07:54 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Location
- In between houses
- Posts
- 1,744
Nice to see an original.
-
9th July 2020, 11:16 AM #7
Thanks Vann,
Yeah will just test blade tracking when I get it running and go from there.
The electrical system will defiantly need a big once over to make sure it is up to spec and thanks for the offer, would be awesome to reuse the old switch gear if possible.
Will hopefully be getting a 3-phase installation quote in the next two weeks. Will have to see if it a financially viable option for a mostly hobby shed.
I also don't like how guards hind the the old lines but safety is pretty important to me so will be making up some form of guards.
Tom
-
9th July 2020, 11:57 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 623
Awesome! I have one of these thats due for a restoration when I get time.
Post info on how you go regarding 3-Phase quote. I am looking at moving in 12 months time and will be keen to install it in the new place. I've heard everything from ~$1000 to +$40,000 (if you had to run lines across a property and rig up posts etc.)
You can make it a lot cheaper by doing some ground work and then just having a sparky come around to hook it all up.
-
9th July 2020, 12:39 PM #9
Your saw posts defiantly got me keener for this, you have a large journey ahead with those.
Will do, hopefully won't be too bad as the 3 phase to the pole and is strung up to the fusebox so no digging required to get it the main house fusebox. I have a few sparky mates that can make the fusebox to shed cheap but need a level 2 for pole to fusebox which they can't help with.
-
10th July 2020, 12:05 AM #10
Don’t quite follow re level 2 pole etc.
My 3 phase was to the house and then out to the shed with 4 wires strung across the back yard with one pole half way in the middle of the yard.
The previous owners had needed more power so strung the 3 for single phase along side them.
Plus the phone line. Beautiful.
My bro (who was a sparky) helped me put it underground with a layer of bricks over the top to slow up future gardeners. We ran the phone on the fence in conduit.
He also rewired the shed whilst at it.
H.Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)
-
10th July 2020, 11:46 AM #11
level 2 electricians are able to do high voltage, basically work on power poles. So until it hits the the main fuse board for your house level 2 is needed.