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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Brookfield, Brisbane
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    49
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    1,080

    Default C-channel or not c-channel

    Hi WWF,

    I am building a traditional 4 leg dining table 3400 x 1100.

    My intention is to use cross bracing every 500mm to attach the table top (using JCBs and insert bolts with elongated holes ) and to keep the top flat. This setup will be accompanied by loads of z clips.

    I have seen other builds where they have used c-channel albeit they have not secured the cross bracing to the top.

    Do I need c-channel in my scenario or is my approach of using the cross bracing (JCB bolts) and Apron ends (z-clips) more then sufficient to keep the top flat?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    4,369

    Default

    Not sure what you are envisaging, Damen; perhaps a drawing or photo might help?

    We were in China shortly before lockdown, and saw a Ming dynasty table where the top was stabilised by sliding dovetail rails. After over 300 years the top was still flat. The furniture was quite elegant, very different from the Elizabethan stuff of the same era.

    Dovetail Rail.jpg Hope drawing makes sense!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Brookfield, Brisbane
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    49
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    Default

    Thanks Graham but to scared to do that to the underside of such an expensive table top [emoji4]



    Not sure if you will be able to make out the details from drawing

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Damienol View Post
    Thanks Graham but to scared to do that to the underside of such an expensive table top ...
    But 300 years ago it would have been a little less expensive.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    2,585

    Default

    Assuming this is an indoor dining table, why are you concerned about the top cupping?
    I just add one or two timber crossbars and attach the table top to those with Z-clips.
    Steel channel will just add more weight to an already heavy 35mm thick table top.
    Given the span, you might be looking at some sag in the top.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Brookfield, Brisbane
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    49
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    Default




    Keeping the top flat for 300 years is my key [emoji359] objective.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    2,585

    Default

    Looks great. This is how I secured the top to the cross-beam on my jarrah dining table. No sign of cupping after 30 years. I'm pretty confident it will survive another 270.

    IMG_2779.jpg

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,344

    Default

    I would use timber buttons fitted to grooves in the cross members and the end-aprons only, not the side aprons. One side of the cross members only, 50/50 in opposition to be thorough (and OCD). I don't profess to know what I am doing though.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    4,369

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Damienol View Post
    Keeping the top flat for 300 years is my key objective.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jack620
    No sign of cupping after 30 years. I'm pretty confident it will survive another 270.
    I like that!

    But not everyone does. Incredible.

    Friend's son got married recently and were looking for a dining table - settled on an Ikea-style thing - prime veneered chipboard. Friend pointed out that it might last only six or seven years, and that they could buy an antique blackwood table from **** for virtually the same price. It would look better and last another 100+ years.

    He was astounded by the kids' response. "We will probably be sick of it in 5 years and you couldn't junk a lovely table like that." They actually wanted crap so they could throw it away in 5 years. Incredible!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    geelong
    Posts
    328

    Default

    Looks extremely adequate if not overkill as is.

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