Sealing bath to wall

[Scottymc]

Hi All,

I am replacing an old bath and shower with a new freestanding bath as a bath/shower to add some space during bathroom reno.

The bath will be placed in the corner, (wall tiled from floor to 2000 high), and on the other side of the bath (to stop splashing from the shower) I intend to use a fixed 10mm glass panel 1000mm wide x 2000 mm high.

Sorry if it is hard to follow, but tiled along long side and end of bath and a glass return to enclose approx half the bath.

The bath (which I already have + glass screen) is not really designed to be built into the wall as normal, no lip for tiles to run down to, and has a concave top edge.

So what I intend to do is to tile as described after waterproofing, and butt the bath against the walls and use a sealent between the bath and the walls. Same with the glass return, one end will be attached to the wall, but along the side (which runs parallel to and butts up against the bath) I intended to continue the sealant along this join as well.

There is no floor waste in the bathroom which is why I want to fully seal around the edge.

I know it's not conventional, but will it be ok, or does someone have any other thoughts??

Sorry about long/rambling and probably totally confusing post

Thankyou in anticipation!

Scotty.

[Dirty Doogie]

It might work. But I would strongly advise against it. Have you got a close up pic showing the rolled edge of the bath?? There are other ways to do this sometimes.

[juan]

Sorry to be negative but it sounds like the tail wagging the dog. New baths are really very cheap and old ones are even cheaper. I would be getting a bath suitable for the purpose it is to be used for and it will cost no more than about $200 which in the scheme of things to do with bathroom renovations is not much. I would also be cutting in a floor waste outlet somehow and having some slope to it on the floor.

Cheers

[Scottymc]

The edge of the bath that will sit against the wall and the top are basically at right angles to each other, so no lip to speak of. Normally this bath would be used freestanding, as it is a fully enclosed unit (acrylic). One of those moulded things with a head rest built in etc etc(that the good wife talked me in to)!

Anyway, I know should have followed the KISS rule but the bath cost a grand and I already have it so I will have a crack at the sealant idea and see how we go. I guess I will just need to keep a very close eye on the condition of the sealant and replace if necessary.

Can anyone recommend the best sealant to use? I've seen Sikaflex mentioned quite a bit in posts, any specific product that would work the best?

Thanks for your help, I wish I had of discovered this forum before I purchased this bath!!

Scotty.

[Dirty Doogie]

Hmm - I'm not sure about the sealant only idea - especially as it sounds like you are going to need a big fat line of it (concave edge). Sealant can get mouldy, turn black ,yellow or orange and start to smell and go permanently slimy if water continuously lies on it. Both silicone and polyurethanes will do this.

I'm thinking a polymerised rubber sealant is going to be what is needed and unfortuneately it doesnt come in white (that I know of).

Have you actually placed the bath in position to see how it fits? Some baths look like they have square straight sides but actually have a smaller outward kerbing - its a visual design thing that makes edges look straight.

Is it possible to batten out the walls and set the rim of the bath under the battened wall say 30 mm ? So the tiles come down onto the inward slope of the edge ?

[Ashwood]

I agree it's unconventional but I see your point because even a lot of "proper" baths have a "channel" or lower area between the wall and the bath and in real life water does get splashed out!!! And even if the channel goes round the ends/corners, the fall has got to be enough to prevent ponding, etc. Actually same with kitchen sinks - I reckon a lot of manufacturers ought to get back to their basics and rethink things out.

Anyway, I'd try an unconventional but practical solution by somehow creating an infill support (cement, polystyrene, flexi sealant, hardwood battens or other fill) in the convex "gap" or triangle, then fix narrow strips of tiling to create a fall from the wall downwards into the top rim of the bath abutting the wall, then use wet area silicone on all joints.

You'll have to be creative in turning round the corners though at the ends of the bath, and figure those bits out.

Bunnings will have a good range of silicone, and Selleys does have white ones which promise to be wet area proof, and not go mouldy or turn black.

Don't have a photo of your situation, but from your description this is my 2 cents worth.

[juan]

Sorry to harp on, but have you spoken to the bath supplier to see if the bath could be exchanged for another more suitable design or other items you will need? I have gone down this path with reputable suppliers many times over the years with success. Sometimes you lose a bit on a restocking fee but sometimes the first loss is the best loss. Like the share market teaches, having a loser is not half as bad as holding on to a loser.

Cheers

[Scottymc]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for your thoughts so far.
When I get home from work I will run a straight edge on the bath to ensure it is perfectly straight, if not I think I will start drinking heavily, and think about a solution when I recover.

I know I didn't explain the bath shape very well, but I dont think the water will pool at the join at the wall, but will need a god bit of sealant where they meet. By concave, it is the side of the bat that is concave, imagine a banana lying there with the ends in the air, and the middle at the bottom, kinda like my 5 y.o would draw a picture of a boat.

So to recess it into the wall would take some pretty fancy tile cutting (to finish the same as the bath) that is beyond my skill level. I would still have the problem that there is no lip built into the top of the bath to go behind the villaboard/tiles. I guess I could lay a bead of silicone along the top edge, but not really a permanant solution.

Here is a link to ebay that has a picture of the same bath. Sorry but I don't have access to a camera at the moment.

Cheers,

Scotty.

[Scottymc]

Sorry, forgot to add the link for the pic.

Here it is:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Acrylic-1069-...QQcmdZViewItem

[Dirty Doogie]

Egad!! lol that is a nice bath !! Having seen the bath my new suggestion is - Forget tiles and sealant - go to a Glass splashback place and ask them to shape a piece of glass to the rim of the bath. Its going to cost you another 1k but then you'll be spending about $300 on sealant anyway me thinx.

Alternately you could get a piece of acrylic sheet maybe from the place advertising on ebay (the lucite acrylic they use for the bath) - cut and fix that to the walls instead of tiles - cost about $500.

That sort of bath will have some flex in it and sealant may split if not applied properly.

Really that bath should be free standing - I suspect it is going to look daggy stuck into a corner.

[Scottymc]

Hey that's a great idea. It gives me some breathing space anyway, as I can have a shot at using sealant, and perhaps look at acrylic sheet (or similar) later if it needs it. I'm under some time pressure as I have to do the whole bathroom while my wife and kids are away (I've got about 12 days), oh yeah, and keep working as well.

So wife holidaying in Brissy, me working and renovating - I hope it keeps raining up there!!

Yep, I know it would look better freestanding somewhere, just need a bigger house to put it in.lol.

Budget didn't extend to a new shower + a flash bath so hence the bath/shower combination in a freestanding bath idea.

Anyway, thanks for all the advice. Pics will be posted when finished!

Scotty.

[Ashwood]

Ya, that is verry niiice indeed. I totally mis-visualized the picture so ignore all my earlier comments.

One question - from the photo, it looks as if the bottom of the bath is tapered inwards from top to bottom ie. wider at the top and narrower at the bottom. Could be just the angle of the photo. But it if's tapered, then you'll have a strange triangular gap at the bottom when viewed from either front or side ie. the wall or glass you put in will be vertical but your bath bottom is not.

I know you said you don't have a floor trap ... would you consider putting one in and creating a low bund to contain the overflow/spray from the shower? As D.D. said, does look cool as a standalone.

Anyway, as mentioned, if you want sealants, there are some mould proof, stain proof white silicones in Bunnings.