![Thanks](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/thanks.png)
![Likes](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/likes.png)
![Needs Pictures](https://www.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/happy/photo4.gif)
![Picture(s) thanks](https://www.ubeaut.biz/wave.gif)
Results 1 to 15 of 18
Thread: Using Clear Epoxy Coatings
-
15th March 2015, 09:02 PM #1
SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Location
- Somerset Region, Qld, AU.
- Age
- 66
- Posts
- 77
Using Clear Epoxy Coatings
I've been asked by a relative to create a top for his home bar using a slab of Rub Gum. He wants the finish that I use on the bar top to be alcohol and water resistant, so I'm planning to apply a Clear Epoxy to the Bar Top. I've got some West System Resin, so I got a pack of 207 Extra Clear Hardener. When I did a small test piece as a sample for my relatives to approve, I was very impressed as this was the first time I'd tried the clear epoxy coatings.
Unfortunately, my relatives didn't like the gloss sheen on the Clear Epoxy.
Does anyone know if there is such as thing as a satin finish clear epoxy finish ? Alternatively, has anyone managed to successfully rub back a clear epoxy surface to get a satin finish.
Thanks,
RoyManufacturer of the Finest Quality Off-Cuts.
-
15th March 2015, 10:15 PM #2
Retired
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Canberra
- Posts
- 122
I'd use Wattyl Stylewood nitrocellulose lacquer. It will give you the same visual appeal, but it can be low gloss as you require.
It's offered, I think, from 0 or ten percent gloss right up to 95% in several gradients.
-
16th March 2015, 09:57 AM #3
SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Location
- Somerset Region, Qld, AU.
- Age
- 66
- Posts
- 77
Manufacturer of the Finest Quality Off-Cuts.
-
16th March 2015, 12:29 PM #4
Retired
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Canberra
- Posts
- 122
You only need an el-cheapo spray gun. Nothing super dooper for a one off.
It lasts in the gun for weeks between jobs. I just plug the vent on top with a blob of bluetac and wipe the nozzle after each spray. My gun is a TotalTools HVLP I think, maximum cost would have been $80, but thats because I was feeling extravagant.
On another thought, the can does say it can be applied by brush and roller.....
-
16th March 2015, 12:43 PM #5
SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2010
- Location
- Perth W.A
- Posts
- 76
Same goes for Becker Acroma which I have used DM 307 and 30% gloss looks nice.
I have sprayed an entertainment unit that was a commission piece and a couple of other pieces of furniture.
You can also get water- based spray finishes too if you prefer,although haven't tried any myself.
I don't have a spary booth so did it outide, not ideal but can be done.
-
17th March 2015, 01:10 PM #6
Retired
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Canberra
- Posts
- 122
I have to admit, Ive become a HUGE fan of NC.
There was a can I bought about 18 months ago after a turning session/lesson where it was shown to me to finish bowls and other semi-commercial turnings. Until now I've been using waxes etc for turnings and PU for furniture and perhaps boxes. It was sitting there looking for a use....
The other month I cracked it out for a customers job and BAM! It was so fast, so easy, so quick and flawless I couldn't find a single reason not to continue using it. The fact I dont need to clean up each time is an immense time saver. Other than it being highly explosive when its aeroled, its very very usable...
No blazing up while you spray gentlemen!!
-
17th March 2015, 10:50 PM #7
SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2009
- Location
- Coffs Coast
- Posts
- 14
aussieRoy,
I've used west system for the same purpose. Just rub with 0000 steel wool or 1000 grit paper after it cures. That makes a nice satin finish. you can polish or dull it by going up or down grits as you like. use a ROS as its bloody hard and takes plenty of rubbing.
-
18th March 2015, 11:19 PM #8
New Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2010
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 6
As Elver suggests. Rub out the finish.
Becker acroma DM 307 is great for furniture but use there Poly for a bar top.
Regards
G
-
19th March 2015, 12:28 AM #9
SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2003
- Location
- Osaka
- Posts
- 346
Yep, I rubbed down Estapol 7008 with 2000 grit wet and try on a bathroom bench top and it was perfect. Not shiny, but silky smooth.
Semtex fixes all
-
23rd March 2015, 09:13 AM #10
GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2003
- Location
- Central Coast, NSW
- Posts
- 611
Yep, NC is wonderful and precat lacquers like Stylewood are even better. But as I always point out in case anyone doesn't realise if you are using Stylewood without using an NC sealer first (like Wattyl Rediseal) then you are only getting half the benefit.
The thing I like most about NC lacquers is when you are done you are done.
cheers
Arron
ps if you decide to use Stylewood on an ongoing basis make sure you apply to the dealer for a discount. They should offer 60% discount on the retail price no problem.
pps apologies for perpetuating the thread hijack.Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
-
23rd March 2015, 07:11 PM #11
OSMO natural oil wax finish. German product available here, you can get the gloss level you want. Easy to apply. Goes a long way. Acid and alkali resistant, won't water stain, alcohol doesn't bother it. a bit pricey, but, like I say, it goes a long way. Another product which is supposed to be similar is Whittles wax. Never used that though.
Once you use it, you won't go back to anything else.
Cheers
BevanThere ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!
Tom Waits
-
3rd April 2015, 01:29 PM #12
Yeh nitro is a great thing but it simply will not stand up as a bar topping.....a major part of the solvent used with nitro is alcahol.
AND it is not impervious....and it is nowhere near hard enough.
The reason why epoxy and two pack laquers are used for bar topping is that they are HARD and impervious and pretty well uneffected by water and multiple solvents.
One thing that must be understood...unless epoxies are specifically formulated they are very UV vunerable.
In the marine world, epoxes are used extensivly to stabilise and make wood impervious..but they are always overcoated with something to give UV protection
If you want a good hard durable finish for a bar top, my recommendation would be two pack polly eurathane..and spec it in the desired gloss level.......remember with care and carefull arrangement you can brush two pack pollyU.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
-
4th April 2015, 12:09 PM #13
Retired
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Canberra
- Posts
- 122
Soundmans advice was good, but it had me thinking.
I use Wattyl Stylewood Nitro and I went to read a bit more about it. The solvents in that are alcohols, but not ethanol, the stuff we drink.
There are some seriously nasty warnings on the MSDS:http://www.wattylindustrial.com.au/d...%20%20MSDS.pdf
I've made an absolute ton of things and sprayed them with nitro, including a workbench. It was sprayed over 18mm mdf. When designing for the dude who ordered it (it was for his farm shed) I poured metho (ethanol), turps (benzine), petrol (95) and oil (bog standard car) onto the surface and let it sit in a puddles. In the morning it wiped right off.
The Metho was Diggers, which is >95% ethanol. The remainder is h2o.
A tad stronger than ones tipple
-
4th April 2015, 03:35 PM #14
Im not familiar with the particular product you mention...what sort of nitro is it...plain ordinary nitro, pre-cataliased nitro, Post catalised nitro, two pack nitro or what.
Plain ordinary nitro and precat nitro in general have problems with alcahols various.
as for the toxisity of various thinners and paints....well toluine...is something ya don't want to suck too much of and there is some residual benzine in the hydrocarbon..usually some acetone...and paerhaps for a little extra zing a touch of methelene chloride......yeh ya don't want to be breating too much of this stuff
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
-
6th April 2015, 12:11 PM #15
GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2003
- Location
- Central Coast, NSW
- Posts
- 611
Stylewood is a pre-cat. The tech sheet says it has excellent resistence to alcohol and moisture penetration. Nonetheless it also says its not suitable for kitchens and wet areas. Spec sheet suggests an acid cat for these. I guess it all comes down to how much of a beating its going to get.
http://systemselector.wattyl.com.au/...S/Stylwood.PDF
I find these tech sheets from Wattyl industrial to be fit to rely on, if not a bit conservative.
Cheers
ArronApologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
Similar Threads
-
Clear epoxy over shellac?
By wilkeswood in forum FINISHINGReplies: 9Last Post: 26th November 2014, 10:18 PM -
Clear epoxy for flooring filler ?
By Reno RSS Feed in forum FLOORINGReplies: 0Last Post: 24th September 2009, 12:00 PM -
Filling holes with clear epoxy resin
By Wolfs in forum FINISHINGReplies: 5Last Post: 26th January 2008, 03:23 PM