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Thread: Rip fence issues
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22nd November 2005, 05:34 PM #1
Rip fence issues
figure 1
This is my saw
figure 2 T
his is the style of rip fence I have
figure 3 and 4
The problem I have is the following say 60mm at front of the blade and 61.5 at rear measured on blade not on teeth is this likely to effect accuracy when ripping
figure 5
I have tried adjusting my rip fence on my saw using the adjusting bolts on either side of the fence clamp. Doesn't seem to make a significant difference just causes the other end to wander off.
figure 6
The rear end of the rip fence on the rail notice the gap it has a little springiness and I can shift it a mm or 2 without a problem could this be the cause
Any helpful comments or suggestion apreciated
Thanks
Andrew"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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22nd November 2005, 05:39 PM #2
figure 6
"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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22nd November 2005, 06:30 PM #3
Well, the fence doesn't look great quality but at least you have the problem in the right direction. If the gap was narrower at the back you'd have big problems.
There's a school of thought which says a bit of toe-out (wider gap at back of the blade) stops any chance of re-cutting on the back teeth and many people set it up like that. In this case though, I think 1.5mm over that short distance is too much and i'd be making any adjustments you could to get it back to 0 - 0.5mm out. If it can't do it and still has play in it, check out a better fence.If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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22nd November 2005, 06:46 PM #4
fence toe out
Hi...
If your saw is still in warranty, I'd be getting a new rip fence. Have you checked your fence extrusion with a straightedge? Is there any way to shim the mounting point to compensate?
If your saw's table is cast iron, you can use a magnetic dial indicator base to prevent the far end of the fence from toeing away from the blade. use caution, obviously, to not introduce toe-in, which is a recipe for fast, fast kickbacks.
hope this is helps...
Greg
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22nd November 2005, 07:11 PM #5
Hi Andrew,
Have you checked that the blade/arbor are set correctly and also the table as usually they can be adjusted.
beejay1
http://community.webshots.com/user/eunos9
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22nd November 2005, 07:21 PM #6
BJ's on to something there, is the blade parallel to the mitre slots?
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22nd November 2005, 11:57 PM #7
If your blade is parallel to the mitre slots and you can't get any adjustment on the fence itself then you can place shims between the front rail and the top.
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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23rd November 2005, 07:35 PM #8
Have you looked at the fence head.
the adjustments on mine are where the head meets the rail.
Even if there are no adjustments there are there iregularities where the fence head meets the rail.
Does this require a shim or a stroke of the file?
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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24th November 2005, 06:41 AM #9
I eventually complained to the manager of the company I purchased it from and he agreed to send a technician over to check out the problem. I agree the blade is not paralell to the mitre slot but cant figure out how to adjust it. Ill let you all know what the outcome is.
Andrew"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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24th November 2005, 08:38 AM #10
Is it possible to unbolt the table from underneath and move it until the slot lines up, then re bolt it ?
If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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24th November 2005, 11:09 AM #11Originally Posted by Gumby
Contractor saws are a bit more difficult just a bit reverse in that you loosen the bolts that hold the trunnions and and move them by a slight tap with a mallet to align the blade with the mitre slots. Same story be careful when tightening the bolts.Greg Lee
Old hackers never die, their TTL expires....
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24th November 2005, 12:25 PM #12
Problem is to access anything for adjustment I either have to remove the cast table top that weighs about 60 kg and takes ages or tip the saw on its side. It also has a sliding carriage so I can pull the blade towards me. Basically playing around with the whole thing scares me because I am sure I will make things worse. Anyway the technician is coming tonight so I will watch carefully so I can do it myself next time.
"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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24th November 2005, 03:59 PM #13
I hope problem is solved now. Technician came round and we removed the whole table to top as the adjuster was not easily accessable. But If need be I should be able to do it myself now. Its now about .5mm difference
"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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24th November 2005, 06:54 PM #14Originally Posted by kiwioutdoorsIf at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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24th November 2005, 08:06 PM #15
There was an adjustment system underneath the table top. The whole cast table had to be taken down. Weighs a ton glad there was two of us. Hopefully will stay put should do as there was quite a complex locking mechanism. Should have taken photos bummer
"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)