Durable, natural finish for pine wanted

[derekcohen]

I am in the process of building a chest of drawers for my son (11 years old). It is mainly cypress pine. This must be the first project in years that I have used pine and I had forgotten how soft it is. It seems to dent if I breath on it!

So I'm looking for a durable finish, one that will convert the pine to steel. No, I don't want to paint it with poly, but I will if I must. Will Danish oil toughen the timber enough? This should soak into it and lie below the surface. I was hoping to finish it with a blond shellac, but this will sit on the surface and the pine will still be vulnerable to dents. Or will it?

Any suggestions for a tough, durable finish that will provide an antique-like look will be rewarded with a beer at the next wood show. Actually usable suggestions and you will be treated to several beers!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[journeyman Mick]

Derek,
is yellowing a concern at all? Most finishes seem to yellow on or with the pine and while some don't mind this others don't like the yellow pine look (I can't stand it). I know that Sikkens make a clear finish specifically for pine that minimizes this yellowing, but I don't know that it would make it harder. I built a house about ten years ago for some people who have since become good friends and the pine ceilings throughout the house and verandahs are still looking fairly pale.
If you really want a hard finish you can't really go past a marine system. Several coats of epoxy timber preserver (either Wattyl timber preserver or Epidure) soaked into the timber. This stuff is like water and will soak a long way in, making it as hard as you can possibly get it. Followed up with some marine grade 2 pack polyurethane. This will give you a hard wearing finish, but I'm not sure about yellowing or an "antique" look. I've never worked with stains with this system, or pine for that matter, usually darker hardwoods.

Mick

[vsquizz]

Derek, Why not give the organoil and the ROS burnishing method a go. I haven't tried it yet but it doesn't sound that difficult. I like oil finishes as they are always repairable, well to some degree. Whatever you decide don't be tempted to try the combined poly/stain stuff getting around now. I've just ruined another desk so its back to the Tung Oil.

I find the extra affort with oil finishes provides a good durable finish that looks the part and can always be given a freshen up down the track. Its not as durable as Poly (in most cases) but more natural looking.
See you at the show.

Regards

[TassieKiwi]

Hiya Derek

Firs of all - thank you for your considered, thoughtful and knowledgeable responses on this BB - really helpful, esp on planes. I have been bitten badly, and luuuurrve those slidy cutty things.

AAAnyhoo - I've tried lots and used this stuff on NZ Rimu for a kitchen bench. About 7 coats and I could put coffee mugs, boozy glasseses etc on it with no effect. I've got to say though that the underlying material supports whatever topcoat, and unless you fibreglass the sucker, or use that pourable stuff that is 2mm thick, you WILL end up with marks. Isn't that what we now call 'patina'? Can't stay new forever.