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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    8

    Default Deck around a fibreglass pool.

    Hi All,

    I will do my best to try and explain this without it becoming to complicated !

    We have installed an inground fiberglass pool which has copping pavers around the perimeter except for a 3m curved/arch section (the curve, curves in towards the pool, not away from it... if this make sense ?) The copping pavers overhang the pool edge about 50mm. The rest of the area around the pool is paved.

    So basically I have a 3m x 3m area in the middle of the paved area that I am wanting to put the deck. The deck will finish the same level as the pavers and will overhang the edge of the pool, inline with the copping pavers (the decking boards will be cut along the same curve line as the pool).

    I am trying to figure out how to attach a support for the decking boards which will sit on this fiberglass (curved) edge of the pool. The support need to be 25mm thick so that the decking board will sit on it and finsih flush with the pavers. This will also act (as the copping pavers do) to prevent the 'splash over' the edge and under the deck.

    There is about 150mm fiberglass pool edge and about 450mm concrete bond beam arounnd the edge of the pool. Then it drops off into the cut out area of the pavers which I've already installed the bearers and joists.

    My thoughts were to use 25mm Marine Ply cut at the same curve and silicon it on the fiberglass/concrete and then the decking boards could be attached to that ?

    Just after any other suggestions or thoughts. Anything would be much appreciated.

    My apologies for such a drawn out question !!! Thanks for your time !!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Age
    52
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Are we any chance for a photo?

    Dr - 307.
    All decks should be stained....black white black white black white.......after all it would match anything!
    All roofs should be covered or tiled.....black colorbond, silver mist, black colorbond, silver mist, black colorbond.........after all, we wouldn't want a mismatch!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Here's a couple of photo's. I hope this might help explain it a little better.

    Note: I haven't cut down the post yet !

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,248

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jay-man View Post
    My thoughts were to use 25mm Marine Ply cut at the same curve and silicon it on the fiberglass/concrete and then the decking boards could be attached to that ?
    I would have thought the same way except that you could potentially be trapping water behind your "dummy joist"

    I would probably go Treated pine with a castellated type finish on the bottom to prevent water build up. You would really want to seal the timber also maybe paint it with an epoxy paint - black perhaps so you don't notice it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Age
    52
    Posts
    168

    Default

    You can fasten a wide piece of marine ply into the 450mm concrete surround. It covers up to the pools edge minus the thickness of the decking board - 19 or 22mm. It doesn't need dynabolting. You can use those green plugs with 8-10g SS decking screws. You'll need to trim it so the ply follows around with the curve. Do this by positioning it to the surface and running a pencil from underneath and along the curve. When you've cut it position it 19 / 22mm back from the edge of the pool.

    Then to finish it off rip down a decking board to the thickness / height of the deck at the pools edge and cut 8mm deep slots / grooves every 100mm intervals to help it bend around the curve and fasten it to the end grain of the TP battens with stainless decking screws. That way you'll hide the ply and get a border like finish.

    With the ply you can use plastic packers to keep it slightly off the ground.

    Another thing, what about drainage in that area. Not worried about heavy rains and the soil underneath. Maybe you have thought about it, I just can't see it.

    Cheers,
    Dr - 307.
    All decks should be stained....black white black white black white.......after all it would match anything!
    All roofs should be covered or tiled.....black colorbond, silver mist, black colorbond, silver mist, black colorbond.........after all, we wouldn't want a mismatch!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    228

    Default

    Would have been neater with the coping tile right through.. What ever you putr there on the pool edge i wouldn't think would see 10 years

    cheers utemad

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb View Post
    I would have thought the same way except that you could potentially be trapping water behind your "dummy joist"

    I would probably go Treated pine with a castellated type finish
    Thanks for your thoughts....

    Do you mean a sheet of treated pine (is this avaviable ??) instead of marine ply ? And sorry to sound stupid ... "Castellated type finish"... what is that ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr - 307;
    You can fasten a wide piece of marine ply into the 450mm concrete surround. It covers up to the pools edge minus the thickness of the decking board - 19 or 22mm. It doesn't need dynabolting. You can use those green plugs with 8-10g SS decking screws. You'll need to trim it so the ply follows around with the curve. Do this by positioning it to the surface and running a pencil from underneath and along the curve. When you've cut it position it 19 / 22mm back from the edge of the pool.

    Then to finish it off rip down a decking board to the thickness / height of the deck at the pools edge and cut 8mm deep slots / grooves every 100mm intervals to help it bend around the curve and fasten it to the end grain of the TP battens with stainless decking screws. That way you'll hide the ply and get a border like finish.

    With the ply you can use plastic packers to keep it slightly off the ground.
    Yes, that's the way I was thinking. I was going to screw the ply to the concrete and then run silicon along the fiberglass edge to help seal it from water going under neither the ply. I was also considering sealing the ply with a sealer, like the type used in 'wet areas' before tiling. Would this be better than plastic packers ?

    Good idea about the trim piece of decking around the edge !

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr - 307;
    Another thing, what about drainage in that area. Not worried about heavy rains and the soil underneath. Maybe you have thought about it, I just can't see it.
    Yes, that's been taken care of... in the back corner (top coner in the first pic, can't really see it though) I have a drain which runs the excess water away under the pavers and into a 'runoff' pipe. I will be installing a overflow pipe from the pool under this deck to the drain also. With the soil... I'll be covering it with a 1/4 minus and cement dry mix.


    Another question.... Should I use Stainless Steel screws to attach the decking boards ?

    I'll try and do some progess pictures also.

    Quote Originally Posted by utemad;
    Would have been neater with the coping tile right through.. What ever you putr there on the pool edge i wouldn't think would see 10 years
    Yeh probably ! I've still got that as a backup plan though. I've got plenty of copping paver left over to run around the edge, so I could then butt the deck up against copping. We just preferred the look of the deck over hanging the pool edge.

    Thanks

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    newcastle
    Posts
    216

    Default

    hi - ya, if you can stand the crap new age site, patio has done a deck over and then into a pool with lightboxes (lightboxes might be the name of the job - in sydney somewhere).

    Anyway, what i'd do is raise your decking up above the paving one step high (say 170mm) to delineate it from a design perspective, then cantilever over the pool by a foot or so, and even consider squaring it up, so its more like a platform, and different from the surrounding materials - obviously face the end of the joists as well with decking

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pharmaboy2 View Post
    Anyway, what i'd do is raise your decking up above the paving one step high (say 170mm) to delineate it from a design perspective, then cantilever over the pool by a foot or so, and even consider squaring it up, so its more like a platform, and different from the surrounding materials - obviously face the end of the joists as well with decking
    Yes, I had considered that, however we wanted to keep the area at one level due to kids running around the area.... Yes yes i know, I remember being told not to run around the pool too... didn't stop me though !!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by pharmboy2;
    hiya, if you can stand the crap new age site
    Mmmm, I see waht you mean... Nice deck though !

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Age
    52
    Posts
    168

    Default

    I'd use stainless. Especially with bare feet and all 'cause nails as we know can lift and if you need to get underneath you can remove some boards.
    Be careful, they can be soft and you will snap / break some. Just re-drill another pilot hole next to the 'broken' one.

    I reckon it will look awesome as a 'fitted in' feature.

    Please explain - hiya?

    Dr - 307.
    All decks should be stained....black white black white black white.......after all it would match anything!
    All roofs should be covered or tiled.....black colorbond, silver mist, black colorbond, silver mist, black colorbond.........after all, we wouldn't want a mismatch!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr - 307 View Post
    I'd use stainless. Especially with bare feet and all 'cause nails as we know can lift and if you need to get underneath you can remove some boards.

    I reckon it will look awesome as a 'fitted in' feature.
    Stainless it is !!! Yeh, I thought the same about being able to get underneath.

    As mentioned, I'll try and keep progess pics posted.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Age
    52
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Look forward to it.

    Good luck,
    Dr - 307.

    P.S. Be careful with the length of decking screw you use. You'll need to use 50mm not 63mm. And don't rely on Bunnings or the majors to get them. You can get 10g x 50mm square drive Type 17 and get one pice driver bits, not the magnetic extensions. When your screwing you'll know why. The bit can bite inito the square drive of the head and then the extension bit gets caught so you are forever taking out the bit to replace it into the extension. Believe me, find one (or seven) one piece square drive bits.
    All decks should be stained....black white black white black white.......after all it would match anything!
    All roofs should be covered or tiled.....black colorbond, silver mist, black colorbond, silver mist, black colorbond.........after all, we wouldn't want a mismatch!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    8

    Default

    dr - 307: Thanks for the tip !!!

  14. #14
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    Feb 2008
    Location
    NSW
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    Default

    As promised, here's some photos of the finshed deck.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    228

    Default

    Looks good



    cheers utemad

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