![Thanks](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/thanks.png)
![Likes](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/likes.png)
![Needs Pictures](https://www.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/happy/photo4.gif)
![Picture(s) thanks](https://www.ubeaut.biz/wave.gif)
Results 1 to 8 of 8
-
13th January 2007, 12:26 PM #1
Blueboard - Vertical vs Horizontal
Hi Guys
I am in a bit of a quandary regarding the correct way of installing blueboard. My research has indicated that the best way to install blueboard is vertically, however my son-in-law reckons that it is best to install horizontally (he is a roof plumber).
Any suggestions on the correct procedure?
Regards
John
-
13th January 2007, 02:15 PM #2
SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2005
- Location
- Sydney
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 882
3.2 ORIENTATION
3.2.1 Vertical
Vertical sheet installation layout is recommended for the following reasons:
*The longer sides of the sheets are recessed, facilitating vertical sheet joints, horizontally laid sheet sheets could require significant site grinding.
*Noggings can be staggered rather than in line.
*Vertical sheet installation minimises wastage as sheet lengths and widths suit wall heights and stud spacing.
*After coating, vertical joints are generally less obvious in glancing light conditions than horizontal joints.
HardiTex® (Blueboard) System Fixing Manual
Download the manual here.
edit: - Are you any relation to johnc? Same Billy Connolly avatar, and we all share the same name. My last name starts with 'C' as well. That's J.C. Just call me Jesus. He was a chippy too you know.I reckon I could teach him a trick or two about carpentry as well.
-
13th January 2007, 06:18 PM #3
SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Victoria
- Posts
- 412
AS pawnhead says, it is supposed to be installed vertically.
Tools
-
13th January 2007, 08:26 PM #4
Hi Guys
Thanks for the prompt reply, awesome forum.
Glad I asked as we are seriously thinking of rendering our extension and the rest of the existing house. Any tips, pitfalls or things to consider. The house is a single storey and will be approximately 20 meters long by 10 meters wide when completed.
The existing house has pine weather boards which are in need of replacing.
All help appreciated as I am quite new at all this.
Sorry Pawnhead no relation, my last name starts with an A. I chose Billy as my avatar as I quite like Billy Conolly, good for a laugh.
-
13th January 2007, 10:47 PM #5
SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2005
- Location
- Sydney
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 882
Yeh, he's a riot
I'd just download the manual that I linked and have a good read. Follow the instructions so you don't void any warranties that they may give. Mind you, I've installed a lot of blueboard and I haven't read right through that manual. I've never had any complaints, but I've always had pros doing all the rendering. That would be the tricky part getting all the joints flush but I'd have a go at it if it was my own place and I wanted to save the money doing it in my spare time. I've done a lot of plasterboard setting and I'd imagine it would be the same technique.
-
14th January 2007, 07:31 AM #6
Thanks for your help John, much appreciated. Have downloaded the manual and will have a read.
Regards
John
-
18th May 2007, 05:07 PM #7
New Member
- Join Date
- May 2007
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 2
I'm about to install some blueboard for the renderers.
Can anyone help me with the following:
1) I assume the blueboard should be screwed not nailed? (If screws - what type?)
2) At the end of one wall the BB will butt up against the outside brick wall. Is there any way to fix the BB to this wall. I cant get access to install a stud on the inside of the brick wall?
I would appreciate anyone's help.
-
22nd May 2007, 09:36 AM #8
Member
- Join Date
- May 2007
- Location
- Cronulla, NSW
- Posts
- 58
I assume the blueboard should be screwed not nailed? (If screws - what type?)
I just put up some BB and thought I would 'do the proper job' by screwing rather than nailing. Screws have to be predrilled with a masonary bit (not on hammer though) and need to also be countersunk so the heads don't sit proud. After the first 2 or 3 I went back to the installation guide - says OK to use galvanised clouts so decided expediency overrode misplaced sense of professionalism.
Banged in the rest of the clouts in the time it took to screw in the first 3!! Obviously also no need to countersink, just be careful not to leave any 'two bob bits' with the hammer head.
I used stud adhesive (lots of it) to glue a strip of BB to some brickwork where needed.
Cheers, Ron
Similar Threads
-
Fibre Cement or Blueboard render
By Bally in forum CONCRETINGReplies: 3Last Post: 6th September 2006, 09:51 AM -
blueboard as a substrate under floor tiling
By nt900 in forum TILINGReplies: 6Last Post: 22nd January 2005, 05:18 PM