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Thread: electric oven
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28th February 2008, 01:44 PM #1New Member
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electric oven
I am considering buying a freestanding with electric oven. I think due to having air con recently installed I may not have enough supply for the oven (according to the electrician who installed the air con) is this info correct and if so what would be an approximate cost to have more electricity supplied to my home?
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28th February 2008, 04:29 PM #2Senior Member
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you dont need to "install more electricity "....you already have enough, what the sparky mean't was you need a seperate line to run the oven ....I am sure a sparky here will give you facts and figures if you want it, but basically it goes like this ...standard power points usually run off a 20amp circuit ....now if your running several appliances from one source, like your air con ....that can eat up the available amps ......if your air con is running @10 amps .....and you plug in an oven that requires 20amps to run ....then your 10 amps overlimit....this will cause an overload and trip your safety switch ......you wont be able to run both appliances at the same time ....so what you need is another circuit from your mains to your oven so it runs independantly .....thus eliminating an overload ....most "fuse boxes" have an empty slot to allow for this, if your does not, then there is a strong possability you may need to upgrade to a larger unit to accomodate an extra trip switch and line to your oven........hope this helps
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28th February 2008, 04:42 PM #3
That's not necessarily true MOT, the sparkie might have been referring to the main supply from the pole, quite a few older houses in Melbourne only have 32?? amp supply, so if the oven requires 20amps and the AC is 10amps, we're already up to 30amps with 2 amps left to run the lights and powerpoints .
Cheers
DJ
ADMIN
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28th February 2008, 05:38 PM #4
I would agree with DJ and MOTcombined, ie could be old supply capacity issue or lack of copper/breakers/fuses within the household wiring. However, beware that if you need any sort of upgrade, you aren't just looking at throwing in a breaker and an extra cable run.
To have a sparky add these, he has to issue a certificate, and the entire household wiring has to conform to code, Safety switch, switchboard, breakers, cable size and type etc. If the issue is a limited older supply, the house quite likely had 2 power and 1 light circuit, rubber insulated wiring, and no safety switch. It may have been upgraded since but could still have some of these limitations in place.
You would really need to have the entire system examined by a sparky and be guided by the advice that they give you. If the advice you have was conveyed with more detail, you could get more definite response from the forum.
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28th February 2008, 05:59 PM #5Senior Member
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good point guys I had not though about the "old" wired houses ...shocking to think they still exsist ....pardon the pun
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28th February 2008, 06:32 PM #6
Yep DJ an Malb are on the money
When we (sparkies) add anything to a house we have to do a Maximum demand calculation and then look up AS/3008 the determine the current carrying capacity of the incoming mains.
Obviously the Maximum demand cannot exceed the current carrying capacity of the incoming mains (physically or legally)
There is a way around this but thats a trade secret
PM me if you want a quoteElectricity:
One Flash and you're ASH
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28th February 2008, 07:10 PM #7rob
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i bet you are wishing you didn't ask the question now that the answer may have a couple of extra $000 behind the first number .
i have just had my latest reno rewire as the lights where not earthed and the power board had two switches and as DJ mentioned the supply was low so i was unable to add a aircon at a later date if require . i think the synegy bill to come and upgrade the supply is $300 on top of the $4500 to rewire the lights supply for the oven ,dishwasher , 10 power pionts and plasma set up i have been charged .
if it is only a matter of running a new circiut and there is no room in the meter box you can get small plastic add on boxes that go next to the old one i use one to run a new circiut for my aircon in my appartment .
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29th February 2008, 11:43 AM #8Senior Member
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Is this an electric oven with electric top also?
Or is it electric oven with gas top?
Yes, it makes a pretty big difference to what needs to be done.
I assume the present cooking is all gas (or some other non-electric fuel)?
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29th February 2008, 02:02 PM #9New Member
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hey Smurf, at present chef select everything gas. new one is savoir faire gas hob, electric grill/oven and ingnitions.
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29th February 2008, 02:35 PM #10Senior Member
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You have not stated what your existing Range /Wall oven is I am assuming it is gas? You do have an existing oven correct?
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29th February 2008, 03:10 PM #11Senior Member
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I'd be waiting for the quote for the upgrade, then deciding whether my new oven finds it way onto ebay!
I know when I was looking at ovens, i had to get a quote for gas connection - fairly quickly made me decide on electric plus induction! - at elast I have a 9mm diameter supply, so dont have your problems....
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29th February 2008, 03:21 PM #12Senior Member
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Pharmaboy2 ole mate no such thing as a 9mm mm supply mains most common are 6mm 10mm 16mm cheers
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1st March 2008, 12:24 PM #13Senior Member
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I have a similar setup with a freestanding electric oven/grill with gas hob. The power is simply connected by an ordinary 10 amp plug - it literally just plugs into an ordinary power point. It was supplied with the cord and plug already attached - only thing needing professional installation was the gas.
If your oven is large then it might be more than 10 amp but if not then all you need is an power point to plug it into. In that case it's less likely to involve major electrical work than if you were installing a large all-electric unit drawing 40 amps or so.
The hob is typically two thirds (roughly) of the total load so having that on gas means a lot less electricity needed. From memory the total electrical rating of mine is just under 2300W.
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1st March 2008, 01:42 PM #14Senior Member
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I have a 9mm diameter supply, so dont have your problems
Pharmaboy2 ole mate no such thing as a 9mm mm supply mains most common are 6mm 10mm 16mm cheers
CheersJuan
"If the enemy is in range, so are you."
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2nd March 2008, 12:14 AM #15
Yeah when we (sparkies) talk about cable size we mean cross sectional area not diameter Patty is right but its mm2
We usually talk 1mill, 1.5 mill, 2.5mill etc meaning mm2
Patty is also partly right I'm mention mains in 6mm 10mm 16mm
But there is still some old imperial stuff out there and I'm told it is mentioned in the new regs.
Smurf what you have done is perfectly OK with 2 exceptions.
1/ If the circuit is protected by a RCD(Safety switch) you may find within time the oven will trip (turn OFF) the RCD
Ovens and hobs are about the only thing we don't have to protect with an RCD because of the nuisance tripping factor.
Thats why we like to put ovens on a separate Circuit
2/You have said that the oven is just under 2300W.
Thats pulling around 10 amps
Once again thats OK as long as you don't have much else on the same circuit.
As I assume that oven is on the same circuit as the rest of the Kitchen or maybe a bathroom or laundry all contain some sort of heating appliance.
Let say SHMBO is cooking a roast and some cooks toast or drys there hair and the heating element of the appliance is roughly the same 2300W theres 20amp being pulled and there blows the circuit breaker or fuse and maybe spoiled roast
Another reason to put an oven on its own circuit.Electricity:
One Flash and you're ASH
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