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24th February 2008, 03:43 PM #1Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 25
Kitchen make over, have some questions
Hi all
We are looking to re do our kitchen, basically completely rip out all of the old and replace with new. Also we are going to remove a wall or too.
Here is my plans, in order of the way i plan to do things. there is a few things i am not sure about, so help is much appreciated.
First thing, completed remove old kitchen
Remove non load bearing wall
Remove all existing tiles, splashbacks etc
Hopefully we do not have to move plumbing or electricity, but if so it will probably be done now
Re paint the kitchen
Install cabinets etc
Re tile the floor - This is not what i am sure about, should this be done before we do the cabinets, cost for us is a big factor and i really cant see the point in tiling under something no one will ever see, Is there an advantage to doing it before the cabinets
We are yet to decide on the tiles, however this is something we think that quality is worth the money, any ideas on approx cost of different tiles, and different types (also GF hates grout, any tiles that dont have this, terrazzo?)
The floor is half concrete slab half yellow tongue particle board, i was planning on screwing cement sheets onto the particleboard, which will hopefully be level with the concrete slab. If its not what can i do?
Install all appliances
On a side note we are looking at installing a flat pack, Ikea seems good, any other supplies recommended for Sydney?
Is flatpacks a good way to save money?
Any comments are appreciated
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24th February 2008, 04:15 PM #2Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
- Location
- melbourne
- Age
- 39
- Posts
- 4
You get a better finish if you tile later, after the kitchen is put in. Usually u have to put packers under the kickers to level it out and then you'll see a gap if it's done after the tiles are already in
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25th February 2008, 08:04 AM #3
because your floor is of two different materials you will have to first level off the lower floor to the higher floor then cover the lot with ac sheeting ,otherwise you will be creating a stress point at the junction of the two floors which with movement will crack tiles ,and before anyone jumps in and says that the adhesive will fix this ,tile adhesive is only good for 2 to 3 mm of movement at 10mm thick ,we are talking about a line of fracture here
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25th February 2008, 08:27 AM #4
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25th February 2008, 07:14 PM #5
only if you buy a good product with backup in english (think about it )
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25th February 2008, 08:13 PM #6Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 25
Whats the best way of leveling the two floors? it is about a 6-8mm difference.
Sorry i dont quite understand the "disconnect thing"?
Thanks heaps for the replies
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26th February 2008, 09:07 AM #7
by disconnect ,this means that the layer of ac sheeting is floating (for want of a better term) above the two different floors below ,fitting ac sheeting to level up the lower floor to the upper floor is the way to go ,but must be full coverage and stagger the joins around so that you are not creating your own weak point in the tiled floor ,remember that tiles are a lot more expensive than ac sheet
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26th February 2008, 09:12 AM #8
Okay, you have several options:
- Fill the low side using self-leveling compound until it meets the level of the concrete. I like this for a smaller area, but could be a PITA if the area is large;
- Build up the low side with sheets of "outdoor-rated" plywood to match the level of the concrete (this is my preferred method);
- Then, place a layer of underlayment across the entire (now level) surface and lay your tiles on that (you can use cementitious backer boards or, as I like to use, Ditra (a 1/8 inch membrane underlayment--the tile place will know what it is);
Cheers,
Bob
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26th February 2008, 09:39 AM #9Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 274
levelling a floor
Whats the best way of leveling the two floors? it is about a 6-8mm difference.Juan
"If the enemy is in range, so are you."
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26th February 2008, 11:29 AM #10New Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 2
Hey Damo,
I Work For Trademaster Joinery And Building Supplies Located In Sydney , Fairfield East, We Cut Over 10 Flat Pack Kitchens a Day , Send us your cutting list we can give you a price ..
38 Fairfield St Fairfield East PH : 96811500 FAX:96812410
TRADEMASTERJOINERY.COM.AU , WEBSITE
EMAIL [email protected]
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26th February 2008, 02:49 PM #11Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 25
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26th February 2008, 04:37 PM #12
build up the particle board side. A great shame it wasn't built to the same height initially.... can it be easily lifted and relaid with packers underneath to bring it to the same level? That'd probably be the easiest I rection.
Steve
Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
Australia
....catchy phrase here
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27th February 2008, 04:59 PM #13Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Saratoga, NSW
- Posts
- 96
I just pulled up some particle board that had been leveled out with the adjacent timber flooring for the purposes of tiling, they had used some sort of black tar type stuff to level it... was a pita to get it off the boards where they had overlapped it a bit... seemed to work well for the purpose of the tiles tho...
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27th February 2008, 06:28 PM #14
The "disconnect" mentioned simply refers to keeping any movement of the sub-floor (in your case, particle board) separated from the tile, so the tile won't move with the wood--which results in cracked grout lines or gaps between tiles. HTH
didnt i say that ?????????
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27th February 2008, 11:16 PM #15
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