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5th February 2014, 04:55 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Natural Edge Picture Frame - what joinery to use?
Hi guys, I am wanting to make a picture frame for SWMBO out of natural edge Sheoak Timber, similar to this picture. (although that isn't Sheoak you get the point)
mirrors-2012-031-medium.jpg
I was going to use Mitre Joints however I went down to the local picture framers and he said he wouldn't recommend it as it would be almost impossible to do as there is nothing to register the rough edge against.
Any ideas of other types of joinery you would recommend?
I have seen dovetails used but it wouldn't suit plus how would it be done with a natural edge.
Comments very much appreciated.
Cheers
Thinking about it a bit more, a mitre is the only way to allow the natural edge to go all of the way around isn't it?
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5th February 2014, 05:45 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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There is no problem doing a mitre joint. There are numerous designs for tablesaw sleds which cut perfect mitres by registering against the inside surface rather then the outside.
Refer to this video how to make perfect mitre joint - Bing Videos
You will need to strengthen the joint using an internal spline or biscuit or dowel or something. Lots of options there.
cheers
ArronApologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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5th February 2014, 06:18 PM #3.
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Mitres look real nice if you can manage them but a problem with mitres is the timber has to be of equal width (not always possible with natural edges) otherwise the the pieces won't meet nicely in the corners.
Here are a couple of other designsit that don't look too bad
The top one is just screwed and glued together from above and below using deep hole countersunk screws
The one under that one is just S&G from behind.
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5th February 2014, 06:21 PM #4well aged but not old
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Since it is a natural edge then 45 degrees is a bit irrelevant anyway. Freehand cut one piece to some angle around 45 degrees. Lay the second piece under it in an orientation which suits and scribe a cutting line to achieve the effect you require.
The following horrible diagrams might show what I mean.[ATTACH]303017My age is still less than my number of posts
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5th February 2014, 07:28 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks heaps guys, especially for taking the time to draw that pic.
One thing I should have said is that the inside will be straight like in the PICs
Do you think the under / over method would look funny though?
Cheers
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5th February 2014, 07:41 PM #6.
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5th February 2014, 10:11 PM #7
Good Morning Arry
BobL's method is far easier to get a good result than using mitres.
In my opinion, mitres in bush timber do not look right unless all four rail-stile joints are by timber of the same width, thickness and curvature. Any variation will display end grain.
With Bob's method, you can bolster the joints with mortise & tennon, loose tongues, dowells or just plain bog standard butt joints. If you make your backing board of 3 mm MDF or ply and screw it to the frame every 150 or 200 mm then it will add strength and minimise the engineering needed for the joints.
Fair Winds
Graeme
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6th February 2014, 01:59 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Guys, I think I will give Bob's method a shot, will be easier and look better.
Cheers, I will post a pic if it looks good
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6th February 2014, 01:08 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Question: If I use Bob's method I would somehow have to make the rabbets by stopping short on some ends.
I could do it with my dado set but it wouldn't it be dangerous?
Suggestions on how to do this or would you simply assemble the frame and then use a router to do the work?
Or I guess drop the piece down onto my router bit (using my router table) as the bit was spinning?
Suggestions?
Cheers
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6th February 2014, 04:04 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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Apologies for bumping this, it is for a present and I left it a little late
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6th February 2014, 10:18 PM #11
Good Morning Arry
I have used two techniques, noting that I would not be game to use dado saw.
FIRST: On the router table - I just use chalk marks to mark the end of the rabbet rather than trying to set up physical stops.
SECOND: Noting that the back of the frame must be flat, I free hand the router with a rabbet bit with ball bearing guide. CarbiTool T1720B.
Fair Winds
Graeme
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6th February 2014, 10:25 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Cheers Graeme