Tiled splashback?

[Harry72]

Currently doing my kitchen and I've come across a dilemma, were wanting to tile from cabinet to ceiling(no overhead cabs).
The walls that are to be tiled are single rendered brick(in and outside)which has had gyprock stuck directly to it with stud adheasive and construction adheasive alternating at every 200mm/8".
A freind mentioned that the tiles maybe to much weight for the gyprock to support, he suggested it may delaminate the paper from the chalk.

Can this happen or not
Im sure the gyprock cant come away from the wall as I've needed to remove a few small area's... needed to use a chipper gun to get it off the wall.
The wall is not subject to any water from the kitchen as the sink is on an island, the kitchen area wasnt originaly intended to be the kitchen was ment to be the dining room, but plans changed. If I had known I would have used Hardy board in the 1st place.

If it can delaminate what can I do, could I put heaps of wall plugs and screws to help support it?

[dennford]

I'm pretty sure that I would persevere with removing the plasterboard - even though it is difficult. At least you then know that you have a solid surface to tile over.

Denn

[dennford]

And if you really can't get it off, dont try to fix it with wall plugs. buy some hardiesheet and fasten that with wall plugs and pan head screws forming a completely new surface to tile over.

Denn

[Harry72]

I'd like to do that, but it would take weeks as its adheared that well!

Hmmm didnt think of that, one problem though the cornice is already up and painted

[thesupervisor]

i would just put the hardi board straight over the gyp
and fix on the studs at 250 centres with wafer head screws and liqid nails score the gyp to help key it in just grout up the edges you will never know
and use rubber glue always!

[Harry72]

There's no studs, solid brick

[dennford]

There's no studs, solid brick

so you fasten the hardiesheet to the wall with the panheads - panheads are thinner than the tile cement.

Denn

[thesupervisor]

may have to drill and plug all hole first about 60mm x 5mm should be fine

[mic-d]

You can tile onto the gyprock no problems. The weight of the tiles is borne vertically, not pulling outwards from the paper. Check any of the major tile adhesive websites for their adhesive recommendations.

Cheers
Michael

[China]

As mic-d said you should have no probs with delaminating, I seen bathroom walls tiled floor to ceiling with no ill effects

[Harry72]

China, bathrooms are clad in hardy board(well... meant to be!)

[redheeler]

When having my brick house replastered with gyprock, plasterers' warned very strongly about stud adhesive being used on anything other than timber. Even if it does grab, it will inevitably part ways with a masonary or rendered surface. I have never come across construction adhesive being used to fix gyprock sheets, and know from experience there is a hell of a l;ot of work involved in plastering over rendered brick walls, for a proper job you just can't stick plaster onto render, cornice cement must be in contact with the bricks to adhere properly. I guess you are aware of this. When I was tiling my splashback, advised to score plaster board before applying adhesive.

redheeler

[Bleedin Thumb]

As Mic-d & China says gyprock will hold tiles no worries, getting them off is the hard part!!!!!


Harry why not go solid glass? its not that expensive and is a lot easier to clean.


EDIT . Harry I was wondering if its such a good idea to be having bench to ceiling tiles. The tiles will show up dirt and they will be a PITA to constantly clean. I thought it would be best to tile up to "reach" hight then piant with a low sheen paint. Just my opinion.

[Harry72]

Red, the stud adhesive sticks to plaster/render better than wood!
The gyprock has been on the walls for about 5yrs and can not be pulled off , believe me I've tried. The render/plaster has a better keying surface than construction pine, the construction adhesive is used to hold the gyprock while the SA takes hold.
The trick is to air blast and vacuum the surface so there's no dust too stop adhesion.

BT glass wasnt an option at $5k+(thats more than the whole kitchen...), swmbo wanted the tiles to ceiling level as the kitchen she works in is that way. Plus its not that high as the room is a lean-too type shape, I can touch the cornice without the cabinets in position.

[bricks]

As long as the gyprock is stuck to the wall well enough, and the tiles are stuck to the gyprock well enough, they wont pull the gyprock apart.

Ps I've not seen a new bathroom clad in hardy board, ever. I'm a plumber and I see them every day. The only benefit I know of for useing Hardy board, villa board or what ever is that it is more water resistant, this property is pretty much irrelevant with the quality of water proofing products available now days. I know bathrooms used to be in hardy board because of the water proof properties, i've renovated a few that were, but not any new ones.