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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Default Filling a complex surface

    Firstly, apologies to anyone who thinks I should be doing a search instead of posting this, but I've read all the prior posts on filling and though they have lots of good advice I just end up confused. Maybe, therefore, I'll ask the question in terms of a specific situation.

    I have a timber surface I wish to fill, and then finish with wipe-on poly and then wax. The problem is that the surface is made up of solid timber, veneer of two species (one porous and one non-porous) and decorative veneer banding. The timber and veneer are predominantly red and white, and the banding is made of dyed red, black, white and green timbers. The gaps between the different elements are generally good but not perfect. There are gaps within the banding say 0.25mm maximum. Now what I want to do is find a filler which will give me a level surface. I want something I can just wipe across the top, leave to dry and then sand off. I guess it has to be clear, or nearly so. The main thing is I dont want to loose the impact of the colours with something which muddies them up.

    any ideas, anyone ?
    cheers
    Arron

  2. #2
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    My suggestion would be talc in shellac, dewaxed white shellac for no colour change.
    As Neil says in his "Polishers Handbook", it leaves a silky smooth surface after sanding. May need a couple of coats to fill some areas.
    Whatever you do test first on a scrap or inconspicuous area to see if it satisfies you. Then you probably don't need my advice on that score.
    Brian

  3. #3
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    May 2003
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    Default

    Interesting idea. Would this mix be clear once it dries, or does it go clear when the poly is applied.

  4. #4
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    Jun 2004
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    Mareeba Far Nth Qld
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    Default

    I do a bit of polychromatic turning, involving numerous coloured timbers. I use a sanding sealer, which is similar to shellac and talc filler. After sealing you can use coloured putty, similar to the old "plastic" wood. There are a number of "puttys" that can be used. Sand back after the "puttys" have set and apply the finish of choice, eg lacquer or polyurethane.
    Jim
    Sometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...

  5. #5
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    Nov 2004
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    Port Pirie SA
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    Default

    Pour on some resin or glass coat.
    ....................................................................

  6. #6
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    May 2003
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    Central Coast, NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by powderpost View Post
    I do a bit of polychromatic turning, involving numerous coloured timbers. I use a sanding sealer, which is similar to shellac and talc filler. After sealing you can use coloured putty, similar to the old "plastic" wood. There are a number of "puttys" that can be used. Sand back after the "puttys" have set and apply the finish of choice, eg lacquer or polyurethane.
    Jim
    Jim, what brand sanding sealer do you use ?
    Cheers
    Arron

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Default

    for a previous task (filling a gum vein) I had success using spirit stain to colour neutral plastic wood -- the solvent based version, NOT the water based one. From the description of your project, you may already know that the stains came in a broard spectrum of colours.
    I used a bright white bathroom/wall tile as a mixing surface -- at the time you could buy single white tiles at Bunnings -- and 3M blue painters tape to mask the gap so the filler only went where I wanted it.

    for a less drastic fill, a clear finish should do, apply enough clear coats till the surface is completely filled, then sand back to the point that the finish is only in the cracks. A solvent based finish (possibly thinned a little) is possibly better for this application than a water based one. Depending on the finish's build, you may need to sand back after every 1 or 2 coats.

    the problem (if it is one) with using talc and shellac is that it is really designed to form the base for a mirror like piano finish. OK if this is the look you're after, possibly overkill if you want to see some grain texture.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Arron View Post
    Interesting idea. Would this mix be clear once it dries, or does it go clear when the poly is applied.
    Yes. It very much "disappears" under the finish.
    But I've used it as a pore filler. Your description suggests you have some small gaps. I can't say how the mix performs as a gap filler. You'll have to test that.
    Brian

  9. #9
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    May 2003
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    Central Coast, NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    the problem (if it is one) with using talc and shellac is that it is really designed to form the base for a mirror like piano finish. OK if this is the look you're after, possibly overkill if you want to see some grain texture.
    thats something to think about. I like a little bit of grain effect showing. Still worth trying.

    cheers
    Arron

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    206

    Default coloured fillers

    I've used the timbermate putties quiet a bit. they are available in various colours. probably the natural colour would be the most suitable for your project. you can even thin it with water and trowel it on or heat it for a few seconds in the microwave to soften it up. once dry you sand as required.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Grovedale (Geelong) Victoria
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    Default

    Put a thin coat of Dewaxed White Shellac in the project first then you can fill with Timbermate or almost any other filler without the fear of it colouring the rest of the surface. It will also make it easier to sand or wipe off the filler when it is dry.

    Timbermate can also be coloured with any water based stain or dye to make it the right colour to match the different timbers. However you should be aware that most fillers are to a certain extent abrasive and if you don't seal a comples piece first you could end up with a not so interesting final finish.

    Hope this is of some help.

    Neil

    PS the Dewaxed White Shellac will not colour the timber any more than wetting it down with water. Dewaxed is better than ordinary white shellac as it is as the name says dewaxed and will allow fillers and other finishes, to stick easier than a waxy shellac.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
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    Default

    Ok, so I seal with shellac and then use Timbermate tinted up to match. Now I need to get some neutral Timbermate, then tint it up as I need it. Naturally Ill want to do various reds and browns and sometimes an ebony colour. so what do I use for tinting. Can I use artists acrylics? if I need to purchase some stains or dyes, what do I purchase - something that will give me a good range of colours and wont cost the earth ?

    Cheers and thanks for the guidance offered so far
    Arron

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