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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    gold coast
    Posts
    3

    Default Woodcraft welding rods

    A new old member just want to say Hi,
    I've never found any woodcraft welding rods on my journey of life so I stayed away from all wood work, but in the last few years have found it to be drawing me closer to " 'ave a go mate ". I recently made a chess board with hard wood timber I bought from Bunnings for the frame but was real disappointed with the timber I chose. The grain once painted with clear coat shows a yellowish powder probably from some treatment.( maybe copper oxide or ?). So as you guess I haven't had any experience in timber selection or even using what finish as I think the clear was way to glossy.Anyway all suggestions especially with finishes will be appreciated. Some pic's hopefully here.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    37
    Posts
    3

    Default

    G'day mate,
    Welcome to the forum

    A finish that comes to mind for a chess board is hard burnishing oil (organoil brand). It's used on benchtops, tables etc...
    Do a search of it, there are plenty of info out there.

    Another finish is Danish oil, although it won't protect your board as much as HBO will. It's an easy finish that smells great too.

    Ubeut have a book on finishing which covers prety much everything - might be worth looking at?

    Just a question with your chess board - is the board a floating fit in the frame?if not, how did you allow for movement?

    Good work

    Andy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    gold coast
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Hi groeneaj
    Thanks for the welcome
    Havent used any polishes or timber treatments till the other day bought some tung oil to try. As yet haven't tried it. Havent used but heard alot bout Danish Oil with a particular brand from England being supposly the best. Never heard of burnish oil but will have a look at ubeat book on finishings.
    With the chess board I haven't allowed for movement of the pieces. They are glued to a piece of ply then dropped in a rebate in the frame and glued.If I were to make another I would make the mitered corners a bit different. Thanks for you interest.Captain

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    61
    Posts
    166

    Default

    Hi Captain,
    the dark timber you've used looks to be merbau and the flecks are a standard part of the timber, not due to treatment. Some sticks have more than others.

    Tung oil will be fine as a finish, since you can just lightly sand and refinish if it starts to look a bit daggy. I even use the stuff on the backboard of my truck with no probs and I only refinish every 12 months or more.

    Good luck with the woodwork and do let us know if you manage to find those woodcraft welding rods .
    Cheers,
    Craig

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Munruben, Qld
    Age
    84
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Welcome aboard, (no pun intended) You could try rubbing out a finish with Minwax (available from Bunnings) I have seen a chess board finished with this and it came up terrific. You have made a good job of the board, it looks great.
    Reality is no background music.
    Cheers John

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
    Posts
    2,966

    Default

    Welcome to the forum. As you can see some suggestion of the type of finish to use. It just means that you will have to make a few more chess boards and try them all.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    gold coast
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thanks all for your welcome and kind remarks,
    @ Groeneaj Andy Thanks mate, will try the finishes you recommend. They will get used one way or another.

    @ Exador Thanks for your info on the hardwood I chose. I probably wont use it again but if I were too I'd like to try the HBO (organoil brand) Andy specified because it may have longer life - more durable. How about a pic of the back board of the truck mate?

    @ Munruben I guess one would use a stain and then use miniwax to give it some depth mate. I look forward to trying this as I made a clock and had the same drama with the finish. It was way to shiny , stain and wax may of been better. The dark timber in the clock was from a scrounged thrown out coffee table I picked up.(literally) The light timber is pine.
    When I bought the polyurathane for the chess board it mainly was for hard wearing - long life not so much the shine,and since I had some left over I used it on the clock. Well its got no character or depth like timber needs to display at its best.Attachment 149239

    @ Christos Mate I have been scrounging and found 2 bedheads at tendercenter and were told that they are red cedar so I will love to do more chess boards.I'd like to do, as I go photo's, as well to show learners like me how simple they are.
    Thanks all,Captain.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    77
    Posts
    0

    Thumbs up

    G'day CP and welcome to the asylum!!

    Love your Kenny badge!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    gold coast
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Hey to you artme and thanks for the welcome.
    This "Kenny clock" was made for my sister Ruth, We come from a transport background and she loves the 'KW".There wasn't much in making it and if you want info on dimensions or any help please ask.I bought the movement from "Lets Make Time Clock Co " here on the coast and it hasn't missed a beat and a great price.
    regards Captain.

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