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Thread: Mounting chuck on 6" Vertex RT
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22nd November 2012, 09:10 PM #1
Mounting chuck on 6" Vertex RT
Purchased a 130mm front mounting 3 jaw chuck (and tailstock) in the recent H&F sale.
As I have never mounted a front mounted chuck before I had to scratch my head a bit.
First order of the day was to make 3 T nuts as the chuck takes M8 bolts and my T nuts are M10 thread. Luckily I had made some T nuts a little while ago and had made about 150mm extra blank T bar.
So it was just a matter of drilling 3 holes and tapping to M8, then cutting the 3 T nuts.
To centre the chuck on the RT I decided to use an MT2 adapter I have for a tailstock mounted die holder for the lathe, this has an MT taper on one end and a straight shank the other.
IMG_4977.JPG
Mounted the straight shank in an ER socket in the mill spindle.
IMG_4975.JPG
Then used this to centre the RT under the spindle and bolted the RT to the mill table.
IMG_4976.JPG
I then mounted a 16mm SS bar in an ER socket in the mill spindle.
IMG_4978.JPG
Placed the T nuts in the slots, put the chuck on top and lowered the 16mm in to the chuck, then tightened the chuck jaws on to the 16mm bar.
IMG_4979.JPG
Tightened the M8 bolts, checked position by putting a dial indicator in the mill quill (leaving the bar in the chuck), and lo and behold it was spot on!
IMG_4981.jpg
Another job done.
I must say that I am glad I don't have to lift an 8" RT and chuck, this combo is heavy enough.
One slight annoyance with 6" Vertex RT is that the handwheel sits lower than the bottom of RT and fouls the table if I mount it in the centre T slot, so I may have to take the handwheel off and reduce its' size a bit. Either that or make up a 12mm thick mounting plate the stretches across the mill table, that will also assist in bolting in to the outside 2 T slots.
The way it is mounted above is fine for work using the RT only, but once I need to use the tailstock I need to use the centre T slot.
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22nd November 2012, 09:22 PM #2
Neat idea for centering Fred
I have the same RT chuck combo, i ended up turning an mt2 stub arbour that fits into the chucks bore. I still find i need to tweak it a bit for center though(after removing the arbour), I think the bore on the chuck may be out a fraction.
The handle thing must be a pain, on my 50 size mill there are 4 t slots slots so if i use the second one back as center the handle overhangs.
1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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22nd November 2012, 09:23 PM #3
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22nd November 2012, 09:29 PM #4
Hadn't even thought of doing it that way, but I suppose there is no guarantee that the chuck bore is exactly concentric to the jaws, as you have found.
Yes, the 3 T slot table is a pain at times, would have preferred a 4 slot, but there you go.
Now that's lateral thinking DJ, must have a look at that to see if it is possible.
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22nd November 2012, 09:37 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Big Shed,
Thanks for posting. I always wondered what was the easiest way to accurately centre the RT about the quill. It seems obvious now that I see you do it but I didn't think to do it that way!
You may be aware that I recently bought the 8 inch RT, it is a bit heavier (which I'm prepared to put up with) and the handwheel too sits below the table which I thought was a PITA. Only redeeming part is that being an 8 inch, the handwheel misses the table when mounted in the centre T slot.
Simon
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22nd November 2012, 09:37 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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The index plates will be larger than the od of the handle.
Why are you concerned about mounting the tailstock in the centre tee slot or any tee slot at all,it can be clamped on its outer edges.
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22nd November 2012, 09:58 PM #7
Thanks Simon, I was wondering whether I should have gone for the 8" and not have this problem, sounds like that wouldn't have helped.
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22nd November 2012, 10:00 PM #8
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22nd November 2012, 10:06 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Thats true but you would find its easier to line the tailstock up to whats held by your table than vice a versa.
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23rd November 2012, 07:15 AM #10GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Big Shed,
I can only assume that the designers thought that having the handle lower than the base as a feature not a fault as it reduces the overall height of the RT which, as people have pointed out comes into play with smaller sized mills. WRT the TS having both bolt holes in line with it's axis, I was puzzled as to what use this is since it is designed to be used with a RT BUT most RT do not have a bolt hole central to the axis, so how are you ever supposed to use the two in the same T slot and in alignment?
Seems strange.
I regards to solving problems by doing things in different ways, I have quickly learnt that in machining, it's not all about the removal of the metal, it's also about planning a job and working through problems and finding different, more efficient, more accurate or repeatable ways of doing things. It never ceases to amaze me how I can spend an hour setting up a job and then spend 5 minutes machining!
My last paragraph above was merely me thing aloud!
Cheers,
Simon
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23rd November 2012, 07:58 AM #11
As the handwheel only sits about 5mm (if that, haven't yet measured it exactl) below the RT it could have been made smaller by that amount or the table height increased or a combination of both. I certainly don't see a logical reason for it.
WRT to central mounting holes, my 6" RT has one at the rear in vertical mode (and 2 in horizontal mode).
Making a secondary mounting plate is still on my possible solution list.
I hear what you are saying about problem solving and work setup, I find that aspect of machining very enjoyable (and books of course). Going through the various options and the right sequence of working is a very interesting exercise and teaches you a lot about how to work.
My son trained as a fitter and turner (so he is a "real" machinist) and I can now see where he learned excellent problem solving and analytical skills.
Unfortunately he hasn't worked as a fitter and turner for a long time, he is earning real money now, tradespeople in Australia are very undervalued (unlike for instance Germany).
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23rd November 2012, 08:11 AM #12GOLD MEMBER
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23rd November 2012, 08:15 AM #13
True, but usually only those that are self employed, an electrician or plumber working for a boss isn't raking it in AFAIK, all tradies in the mining industry are doing well but one wonders how long that will last.
I advised my son at the time to go for an electrician apprenticeship, but he finished up doing the F&T one.
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23rd November 2012, 11:57 AM #14GOLD MEMBER
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They have a nice little exclusive licensing agreement going with the government, governments that keep pouring money into the housing industry and they have limited import competition(though there are people working on that I believe, think flat-pick houses). Also pretty cheap trades to set up your own business.
Still, good on 'em.
Stuart