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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Frogs Hollow
    Posts
    11

    Default Quiz for August 3rd

    The last questions seemed a little hard for most of you (Bruce excepted)

    So an easier question for today.

    If you are making some wall frames how do you make the smoothest possible wall ?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Romsey Victoria
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,102

    Default

    With smooth wood?
    Photo Gallery

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Moo, G'day from CASINO NSW the real home of Beef.
    Age
    59
    Posts
    445

    Default

    Onya Alias
    String line diagonally from corner to corner??
    Fer crikeys' sake do not please do not tell me it involves handplanes :eek:
    Bruce C.
    catchy catchphrase needed here, apply in writing to the above .

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Conder, ACT
    Age
    77
    Posts
    4,213

    Default

    Don't use wood. Especially pine.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Newcastle
    Age
    73
    Posts
    1,064

    Default

    Use 1/2" stainless steel plate glued to the frames
    Not only smooth but stays that way





    Useless infomation for the day


    About a third of all Americans flush the toilet while they're still sitting on it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    .
    Posts
    4,816

    Default

    Only ever, ever, use Smoothiie Woodiie


    Aliie

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Call Bluey from Milla Milla, he's a F'n ace at fixing crook walls & ceilings.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,026

    Default

    By "smooth" do you mean the finished surface of the wall? That's usually what "smooth" refers to, the finished texture or lack thereof. Maybe you mean "true", as in plumb and straight, without any bows. If I wanted smmoth, I'd clad in plasterboard and make sure all the screws and joints were well set and sanded. Of course you could end up with a wall that's out of plumb, racked, bowed and twisted, but smoothe as a babies bum

    Mick the smart@r$3
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    2,515

    Default

    Oh Charlie.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Chemside, Brisbane
    Posts
    12

    Default

    I would assemble the frame flat on the the floor before standing - that way the wall is as flat and straight ("smooth"?) as you can get with the timber that is supplied.
    Avergooday
    Aussieglen

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Australia and France
    Posts
    2,869

    Default

    Red velvet wallpaper with a paisly gold leaf.

    Now that's Smooooooooth.

    P

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Yinnar, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    247

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bitingmidge
    Red velvet wallpaper with a paisly gold leaf.

    Now that's Smooooooooth.

    P
    NO.. Thats COOOL,


    foil wall paper is SMOOOTH
    I try and do new things twice.. the first time to see if I can do it.. the second time to see if I like it
    Kev

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Frogs Hollow
    Posts
    11

    Default

    The ANSWER.
    By smooth I meant a wall that looks even and not undulating. Many otherwise good DIY jobs are spoiled by walls that wave in and out.

    STUDS
    Studs are only relatively straight (within certain tolerances) which means many if not most studs have an edgewise bow.

    Sort them out and use the worst studs for noggins and trimmers etc.

    When you nail studs to the wall plates keep all the bows up.
    By keeping all the bows the same direction there is a lot less wall straightening needed than if some studs bow one way and other studs bow the other direction.

    WALL PLATES
    Use the straightest timber for the top plates. These are a little harder to straighten than bottom plates. Bows in bottom plates are more easily straightened by levering it to a stringline when nailing it to the frame.

    After the framing is finished but before plastering or lining use a straightedge horizontally across the wall to identify high spots and trim them with an electric plane. ( If you are a dark sider then by all means do it by hand but this will take far far longer than with electric plane) The studs only need to be straight within 1 to 1 1/2 mm.

    I might have forgotten something else helpful to the DIY brigade but I'm sure the other chippies online will soon point these omissions out.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    1

    Default

    I pulled all the sheeting of the sheyety job, then Bluey from Mila Milla came along & put string line marks all around the room about 10mm out from the crook warped battons & the nailed new 50mm (?) square battons to the old ones using a level as he went. Then he put up new sheeting over the whole job & it looked like a millions dollars when he was finished. The whole room ended up 10mm smaller from every wall & ceiling but it was a MUCH better job.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    200

    Default

    put a saw cut into the hollow of the bowed studs and drive a wedge into then fit a cleat to the side of the stud to where the cut is for strength.

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