Australian cedar chest of drawers

[joycusack]

I am definitely an amateur!!!
I have an antique Australian cedar chest of drawers in good condition. It has some dints but has not been polished or oiled for some years.
How should I restore this beautiful piece?
a) should I lightly apply steelwool 0000 along the grain?
b) what finish should I use, oil or polish and which type?
c) can I lightly sand the inside of the drawers to bring out the cedar smell, or should I simply lightly oil and, again, with what?
Thanks
Joy Cusack

[Restoman]

Hi Jan,

Don't use oil. If you can find out what it was 'finished' with first then you'll be on the right track. It's likely to be shellac underneath a thin wax. If you oil it you're likely to end up with an oily mess. If it is actually quite old then it's well worth asking someone to have a look at it first. You might only need to use some sort of 'reviver'. This will very slightly burnish the surface removing old dirt/grit and bring back it's natural lustre. Read the directions and buy it from someone who can assist you in selecting the right product. Preferably go to a restorer and ask for some direction. Don't let them talk you into giving it to them to do. Doing it yourself with the right products is very satisfying and a heck of alot cheaper. Whatever you do DO NOT strip it! If you can bear it, don't sand the drawers (or any other part of it). Yes, 0000 steel wool (as you say, with the grain) should be OK, but best to get some advice first.

Hope this helps

[Neil]

Before you do anything try this POLISH REVIVER.

Under no circumstancer should it be oiled, this will dramatically reduce any antique value the piece may have.

If it is genuine cedar antique it will have been french polished with shellac. If it does need stripping then shellac is the finish to use. Don't use steel wool unless the surface is badly worn and the POLISH REVIVER doesn't work. But it never doesn't work, unless the surface coating is gone.

Don't touch the drawers unless they are badly marked, don't oil or put any finish on the inside of the drawers, they should be raw timber.

Cheers - Neil
U-Beaut Polishes
A Polishers Handbook

[Restoman]

Hi again Jan,

One last comment re the assistance from Neil.

"Don't use steel wool unless the surface is badly worn and the POLISH REVIVER doesn't work. But it never doesn't work, unless the surface coating is gone."

There are two things to note here.

1. There are many revivers on the market. Each has it's own selling point but most use the same basic ingredients. My point? You don't HAVE to use the U-Beaut Reviver Neil mentions. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this product it's just that this is a U-Beaut board and there might be a slight (even if subconcious) 'conflict of interest'. That said, Neil does identify himeself appropriately and the product he mentions is a good reviver.

2. I mentioned that it was OK to use 0000 steel wool with the grain. I also made a point of advising to check exactly the condition of the piece before proceeding. Neil probably mentioned not using steel wool because he was worried about you over-rubbing your project - and partially taking off a perfectly good finish. I should probably of added that 0000 steel wool can do this, but its use really depends on the condition of the furniture. If your project has a 'good' base finish (just the surface is dirty) then a reviver will work wonders. However, if the finish is quite old and/or non-existent, then no reviver will 'bring it back'. My point is that there will be occasions where you will need to 'antique-strip'. This removes the old top layer of finish. You achieve this with the aid of some 0000 steel wool and some easily-made solution. This will take the project back to a good base finish so you can add another coat of shellac. Note that
'antique-strip' is not the same as using a chemical (et al) stripper.

In summary, It is really hard to suggest specific advise when neither Neil or I can actually see the project. Different project condition means different possible approaches.

Cheers,

[Shane Watson]

One last comment..?..I count two..!..Your point two is what Neil said only much longer and drawn out...... Mwahahaha!



Anyway Joy, now for a professional point of view....Anyone? Someone? Argh well, just wait till I finish me new or should I say 150yr old Red Cedar Table I got last weekend and I'll let ya know whats what...

If you have to use it, its safe to assume that using synthetic ''steel wool'' is a better idea with cedar considering your experience, as if not properly used and small filings left on or in the surface will cause you grief down the track by getting all rusty! :eek: I've the seen & repaired results of this many many times from amatuers watching DIY shows on TVs or listening to people without any experience or qualifications.