Epoxy Table Top

[Tainden]

I'm sure this has been covered before but i couldnt bring up anything useful in the search...

I've made a dining table out of a cypress pine slab and have filled all the cracks and knot holes with epoxy (west systems 105 resin with 206 slow hardener) and had grand plans of sealing the whole top with a self leveling flow coat.

After running a few small test batches i've discovered that this may be quite a challenge.

Is there any hard and fast rules about doing this?

I'm having trouble knowing how much epoxy i'm going to need as the surface tension changes depending on temperature and thus how far it will spread across the surface.
I'm not sure how much you can mix up in one batch without risk of it going off too soon, and as i'm going to need enough for 1.7 square metres (plus filling in a few low spots), i'm guessing i'll have to mix up several lots and pour it in stages before the previous stage sets.

My other main question is fiddleback, tear outs and the likes where it soaks in more or traps air, etc, is there a way of sealing them easily or minimizing the harm it does? or is basically just fill with epoxy, sand it back and go from there?

The more i persue the idea of using epoxy the more of a pain it seems to be Its a shame cos it does look really nice.

[johnredl]

Sorry, I don't have anything to add...but I eventual plans for a similar project, so I'm interested in the outcome. Can u post pics of ur progress?

[Tainden]

I'm also trying to figure out how to contain the edges to do a self leveling coat.
I've mainly tried using gaffa tape because it sticks well to the wood and doesnt let it leak but it beads the epoxy up the side leaving a sharp ridge all the way around the edge.
It also leaves the dimples from the sticky side of the tape in the epoxy.

Also looking for a way of buffing/polishing sanding scratches out, if thats even possible

Really dont want to do this until i know how to do it, so if anyones done it, or even attempted it...
I'd love some help I really dont wanna stuff it up.

[johnredl]

I'm also trying to figure out how to contain the edges to do a self leveling coat.
I've mainly tried using gaffa tape because it sticks well to the wood and doesnt let it leak but it beads the epoxy up the side leaving a sharp ridge all the way around the edge.
It also leaves the dimples from the sticky side of the tape in the epoxy.

Also looking for a way of buffing/polishing sanding scratches out, if thats even possible

Really dont want to do this until i know how to do it, so if anyones done it, or even attempted it...
I'd love some help I really dont wanna stuff it up.

I have only used self leveling 2 pack epoxy once, but I remember that the side of the bottle said to heat up the surface with a hairdryer to remove scratches. Apparantly the one that I had uses heat to 'melt' the scratches together.

Might work, try it on some scrap.

[stephenoutram]

[QUOTE=Tainden;1473509]I'm also trying to figure out how to contain the edges to do a self leveling coat.

When working with timber boats and using a epoxy type glue, I would wrap a piece of timber in Gladwrap or even a plastic shopping bag and use this a the framing.

The timber framing or shaping piece was pinned, clamped or screwed into position and removed later.

The epoxy wouldn't stick to the plastic and left a nice clean edge.

Maybe a similar principle can be applied to your 'self leveling' task?

Cheers,
Stephen

[Tainden]

Thanks Stephen for the suggestions, I was talking with my old man about it today, he also was thinking about using some sort of timber boxing to contain it. I very much like the idea of gladwrap, will have to give it a go. The only issue i have with this is not all the edges are straight it sorta follows a bit of the natural edge, meaning i cant get the boxing to seal hard up against the edges. That was why i tried gaffa tape.... but that has major flaws as well.

And also John, i did try the 'heat treatment' on the sanded patches, it didnt seem to do much, i tried buffing it with a cloth afterwards it made it a little bit clearer but still fairly fuzzy. Thanks for the idea though, it was worth a shot

[Mr Brush]

Have you considered this stuff

Australia

By all accounts it is very easy to apply, gives a VERY tough finish, and can be left gloss or changed to satin/matt if required.

[Tainden]

Sounds like its worth looking into, will have a look when i head off to the big smoke in a few days.

One queery though, am i able to self level a table top with this or is it just a finishing coat? If i'm going to use the table as a dining table, which is kinda what i made it for, i really need to self level it somehow as some parts of the slab have moved a fair bit.

[johnredl]

I'm not an expert on finishing, but could u always fill ur holes with clear epoxy, then spray on a 2 pack epoxy finish? That'd be a lot easier than trying to do a self leveling-run on type of finish wouldn't it?

[rusel]

Not have seen the top and how uneven we are talking about.
If you put the top level and brush on a very thick coat of epoxy right down over the edge the surface tension will pull it flat. What you end up with is a flat top that rolls over the edge. Much the same as the finish coat on surfboard. Google surfboard finishing to see what I mean

My $0.02 worth

Russell
PS put it on and do not fiddle with it