Wax or Oil -- help me choose

[ian]

Hi
I've completed two of my Certificate III projects -- a mirror stand and writing table -- and need to decide on the finish.


Robert Wearing in the Essential Woodworker suggests that wax polishing is "the most common and easiest finish on handmade woodwork. It is the oldest and generally thought to be the most beautiful of the finishes."

so I'm tossing up between trying a wax finish and opting for an oil finish



what do people think?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

The main problem with wax is it's lack of durability.

In today's society most people want a "low maintenance, wipe-with=damp-rag when dirty" finish to their furnishings. Maybe polish once or twice a year.

Waxed items need regular rewaxing and buffing; the more used they are, the more frequent the need. This ongoing process does develop a truly gorgeous depth over time, though.

Old-fashioned oils, eg. "pure" Teak Oil are much the same but a tad more durable, so they don't need reapplication as frequently. They also tend to develop extra depth of finish over time, albeit more slowly.

The most commonly available oils have all sorts of additives - and more than a touch of PolyU's - to cater for modern trends. They'll stand up to all sorts of punishment that would've horrified our forefathers... but what you see when the finish is first applied is usually about as good as it'll ever get.

[Woodwould]

[mic-d]

Hi Ian,

I would do both! If you want some specific brands, I have had great success with FW Scandinavian oil, ragged on (several coats to get a suitable build) followed by Liberon Black Bison wax. The wax gives a beautiful muted silky finish.

[Cliff Rogers]

I think I would oil them.

[IanW]

Yes, some woods respond particularly well to oil and wax, and Rosewood is one of them, in my experience. Being a desk, the worst thing likely to happen is a spilt mug of coffee, in which case you will probably be more concerned for your keyboard & papers than any slight marring of the finish!

For more utilitarian surfaces, I like to rag on very dilute semi-gloss polyurethane. Built up over 4 or 5 coats or more, you can get much the same effect as an oil finish, but a lot more resistant to spills.

For either finish, I rag on the first coats, then scrub the last coat or two in with fine wet n dry or oooo steel wool. This removes any slight furriness (to which some NGR is a little inclined) & helps fill the wood. For an oil finish, rub down with your favourite wax after it has dried for about a week or so, again applied with 0000 steel wool, or one of those fine synthetic abrasive pads if preferred, & buff up. This gives a very satisfying sheen. I usually repeat the wool/wax routine after about 6 months, then 'annually' (i.e. about every 3 or 4 years ).

Oils based on Linseed oil darken more than those based on Tung - but good luck figuring out which is which, as most manufacturers don't tell you which oil they use....

Very nice desk, btw!
Cheers,

[ian]

Very nice desk, btw!

Thank you

[Karl1]

Ian,

I've used Rustin's Danish Oil on NGR. It is tung-based, I believe. Try it on an off-cut first though, as it does liven-up the colour of the timber somewhat. On the other hand it can reveal all kinds of subtle figure that would otherwise not be noticable.

[ian]

Hi everyone
thank you for your advice.

I'll go for an oil finish on the table, and post again when I finish -- or if I have a problem

as for the mirror stand (the small box) I might hold that over and take it to the Sturt School hand finishing weekend in October