My roller door won't roll.

[Whittle]

Hi, gents, I haven't been here in many a long day, but I need some clues and I've picked on you guys to give me the drum.

Right. Well, I've hung a new roller door on to an existing setup... Screwed the door to the motor "wheel" and to the other wheel at the other end. I haven't tensioned the bar yet, so both springs are slack. The door is fully down. When I have it on auto, and when I press the red button, it starts to take up the slack and wind up, (it's a tad larger than the previous one), and then it stops. If I press the button again, it'll go up a bit further and then stop again. But it won't go any further than a few feet.

What I've noticed is that only the motor end actually seems to take up. The other wheel at the other end does turn, but it lags behind, (and I assume that's what's causing it to jam).

Now, when I put it on Manual, I cannot lift the door by hand! Blowed if I know why. The previous door was working fine before I had to take it off to swap over...long story...

I've probably done something bloody stupid, but I can't figure out how to get it working right. Driving me nuts!

Can anyone give me some clues?

Thanks.

[Sturdee]

Can anyone give me some clues?

Thanks.

Probably needs tensioning. This link to the Renovate Forum thread may help.


Peter.

[Whittle]

Probably needs tensioning. This link to the Renovate Forum thread may help.


Peter.

Yeah, that's what I reckon, too, Peter. Thanks for the quick reply, and I'll go to that page now.

Cheers.
Jim.

EDIT: I have already tried tensioning them a bit, in the usual way. The spring at the motor end seems to wind up nicely, but the spring at the other end seems a lot looser. It is still attached to the axle, because it does wind up a bit. But I can't understand why it's not winding up as tightly as the first one.

Also, I've only tried tensioning them while the door is down, (because I can't get the damn thing up manually). Is that not the right way to do it?

Skinned knuckles, sore fingers, high blood pressure... it's all happening. haha.

[bsrlee]

You will need to find the manual for the winder unit somewhere - maybe someone has one in a drawer, you just have to post the make & model if you can't find it on line.

From your description the auto stop mechanism needs to be re-set, then the door is run up and down until it stops itself, which resets the limits. There should also be a button or pull lever to disengage the roller from the motor unit, after you get this to work you should be able to get the door to go up & down by hand - without the springs it will be a lot harder to move, and the door may lift off the roller at the top and jam against the top of the opening when you lift it.

Lots of luck, I have been through a couple of different motor/controller units over the years and they each operate under their own rules - then try getting parts for one (Buckley's Chance, buy a new one) if a plastic pin breaks.

[_fly_]

You still need the door wound so the spring does a lot of the work.
The motor will not do it by itself.
Some of the stops are set for top and bottom by 2 Cams that trigger a microswitch rotate it and you can get it to move higher or lower.
Most of the newer models do it purely on the load, when the motor has to push harder it guesses its at the end and stops.
The spring not doing any work could also make the door think its at the top because of the load.

You'll need to tension the spring so when the motor is disengaged you can open and close by hand.

[Whittle]

From your description the auto stop mechanism needs to be re-set, then the door is run up and down until it stops itself, which resets the limits.

Ah, that makes sense! And I'll have a look at the box and get the details off it if I need to. Thanks.

There should also be a button or pull lever to disengage the roller from the motor unit, after you get this to work you should be able to get the door to go up & down by hand - without the springs it will be a lot harder to move, and the door may lift off the roller at the top and jam against the top of the opening when you lift it.

Yep, I know about the lever, and that's exactly what happens when I try to manully raise the door with the lever up. Maybe the reset will fix that.

Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna need that luck!

[Whittle]

You still need the door wound so the spring does a lot of the work.
The motor will not do it by itself.
Some of the stops are set for top and bottom by 2 Cams that trigger a microswitch rotate it and you can get it to move higher or lower.
Most of the newer models do it purely on the load, when the motor has to push harder it guesses its at the end and stops.
The spring not doing any work could also make the door think its at the top because of the load.

You'll need to tension the spring so when the motor is disengaged you can open and close by hand.

Yep, it's all in the springs, that's for sure. When you say "cams", do you mean the sharp angled cam on the motor "wheel"? If so, do they have to line up at each end?

[_fly_]

Yep, it's all in the springs, that's for sure. When you say "cams", do you mean the sharp angled cam on the motor "wheel"? If so, do they have to line up at each end?

Usually you get 2 microswitches one behind the other. Then on the motor centre you get 2 cams maybe 1 inch by 2 inch, They are egg shaped with the centre hole at one end of the egg. That way as it rotates the inside cam will set the bottom point by triggering switch and the outer cam set the stop point for the top. If it stops short you can rotate the cam so that it will move a bit further before triggering the switch.

Now none of the ones I've had to fix have 2 motors. but As far as I can think it would work does the second motor connect into the first motor?
Then I'm guessing only the first motor needs the cams set as it will tell the second motor to stop. But thats what the instructions are for.

[Whittle]

Usually you get 2 microswitches one behind the other. Then on the motor centre you get 2 cams maybe 1 inch by 2 inch, They are egg shaped with the centre hole at one end of the egg. That way as it rotates the inside cam will set the bottom point by triggering switch and the outer cam set the stop point for the top. If it stops short you can rotate the cam so that it will move a bit further before triggering the switch.

Now none of the ones I've had to fix have 2 motors. but As far as I can think it would work does the second motor connect into the first motor?
Then I'm guessing only the first motor needs the cams set as it will tell the second motor to stop. But thats what the instructions are for.

I was on the wrong track entirely, Fly. I was thinking of this "cut-out" shape as a kind of cam....
notcam.jpg


Shows what a moron I am....What you describe is probably beyond my tinkering skills. I'll just be happy if I can figure out why the two springs don't wind up by the same amount when I rotate the axle... that's got me beat.

Thanks anyway, Fly. I'd better call it a night and see if I can wake up in the morning with a brainwave!

Cheers.

[Enfield Guy]

I reckon it is tension, or lack thereof that is causing you dramas. Where abouts in bris are you? I might be able to drop over and lend a hand. I've fitted a few thousand roller doors in my time.

Cheers
Bev

[Whittle]

I reckon it is tension, or lack thereof that is causing you dramas. Where abouts in bris are you? I might be able to drop over and lend a hand. I've fitted a few thousand roller doors in my time.

Cheers
Bev

I'm at Mount Gravatt East, Bev.