Finishing a table

[Johncs]

After many adventures not pertinent to the question to hand, I think I'm ready to finish a couple of table tops.

I've never done this before.

Attachment 104166 Attachment 104167 Attachment 104168

The tables are two end tables, and those pics are of one of the tops. The wood is Tassie Oak, with Jarrah trim. The Tassie Oak was laminated with biscuits, the trim was added later without biscuits.

I've done the first sanding with the ROS loaded with 120, and the trim with 80 grit held in a 50cm piece of concave moulding; the trim had a hole where some Jarrah had splintered out o it, and I needed to take off a few mm. Picture 2607 shows where the hole was. It's still visible, and I tried to capture it with the lighting.

I plan on going ahead with 120 (trim), 180, 240 and 340.

The finish, on recommendation from Carbatec, is to be Danish Oil which they happily supplied. I don't intend to stain this work.

I had planned on applying the first coat accompanied with much sanding, so as to fill the pores in the wood and, so I hope, the sap run in Picture 2606. The third pic shows the whole tabletop artfully arranged on the bonnet of the Two Seater.

On further thought, it seemed to me that having Jarrah dust over the Tassie Oak, and vice versa, might not be a Good Look.

What to the experts think?

I've also read that the endgrain is going to drink up the Danish Oil and maybe look very different. The suggested countermeasure is to sand to the next higher grit.

Should I do this? or or is blond shellac the solution to both? Or something else?

I also intend finishing the top before assembly, it seems to me less hassel than assembling and then fiddling in tight corners.

[RufflyRustic]

Hiya Johncs,

Some might fine table tops you've got there.

Re Endgrain - do you have some scraps of the jarrah and tassie oak? Try wetting them with water or metho to see how dark the end grain goes compared to the top. Then, try sanding and wettting the end grain, until you are happy with endgrain when wet.

Filling the sap run - you may find wood filler better than risking jarrah dust over the tas oak. Cabots, Timbermate, take your pick. Both come in a range of colours, are easy to use and wash off with water (off your hands, that is )

And I agree, fiddly corners are not fun so definitely finish before assembly.

cheers
Wendy

[Johncs]

Hiya Johncs,

Some might fine table tops you've got there.

Re Endgrain - do you have some scraps of the jarrah and tassie oak? Try wetting them with water or metho to see how dark the end grain goes compared to the top. Then, try sanding and wettting the end grain, until you are happy with endgrain when wet.

Filling the sap run - you may find wood filler better than risking jarrah dust over the tas oak. Cabots, Timbermate, take your pick. Both come in a range of colours, are easy to use and wash off with water (off your hands, that is )

And I agree, fiddly corners are not fun so definitely finish before assembly.

cheers
Wendy

Thanks Wendy.
I'm fairly pleased so far, and I like the contrast, I think the TO is a little bland alone.

As for scraps, I did the two tabletops as a unit and then cut pieces off one end to get scraps, table, table, scraps.

One of the adventures was a sawblade through the recess for a biscuit. Right at the end of the recess, there's no sign of it on the table. Next time, I'll put my marks on the end

I'll go view the Timbermate selection at Bunnings during the week.

Oh, and tips for sanding the endgrain? Unsupported strips of sandpaper? Strips glued to think slats? Something else?

[RufflyRustic]

Hi John, That's one very close call with missing the buscuit .

Sanding endgrain - especially when it's rounded - I put the board on my workbench so that the end grain sticks out just beyound the edge, then I sand using a cork block, from the top of the board's end to the middle of the end, flip the board over and sand from the other side to the centre of the end grain.

Hope this helps.

cheers
Wendy