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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    1

    Default feast and watson tung oil

    I just used this tung oil, not the hardened oil, on a blue gum floor and I cannot get it to build up layers, it is shiny when wet and then when dries it goes matt and patchy. I have put three coats on. They were ontop of a previous tung oil which I sanded lightly to get it to adhere.
    I have sanded between coats with synthetic steel wool, scourerrs of grad 000, and I have buffed it at the end with a wool pad, still no shine.
    I did not want to use a Polyurethane coat, but when I did in one section under a bench, I used the the feast and watson hardened tung oil, it did adhere and produce a polished finish, but it looks too plastic.
    The feast and watson tung oil (not hardened) seems very thin, I do not think there is any tung oil in it or very minimal, for I cannot get it to burnish up to a shine
    any advice would be appreciated

    andrew

    I

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Newcastle
    Age
    70
    Posts
    41

    Default

    I think the trick is to put it on very thin and then wipe it off with bagging or cloth after about ten minutes. If you let a layer sit there it forms a gunky film. Then I think you need to scrape it back because it will never be a smooth burnished surface.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    255

    Default

    This stuff?
    http://www.feastwatson.com.au/consum...t-details/1528

    Im pretty sure thats just tung oil without any resins or solvents. the absence of resins will prevent it from forming a film finish as far as I know, the oil penetrates the timber and then hardens inside the timber (takes about 3 weeks for me usually). I havent used this product. I use Organoil hard burnishing oil mostly. Its a mix of tung oil and citrus solvent. I dry sand to 400grit and then apply 2-3 coats of oil, leaving it sit for about 30-60mins and wiping off. Next coat goes on after a few hours. On the last coat I wet sand up to 2000 or higher grit depending on the sheen I want. Then I put the paint brush that I used to slop on the oil aside and wait for the bristles to harden and become stiff (3weeks). I found the sapwood in hardwoods to raise the grain as the oil hardens, 3weeks later everytime. So I sand it down with 800grit with a bit of oil applied to the sand paper, and then hit it again with whatever grit I iused to finsh the wet sanding. Then the piece is good to ship it out the door.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    SE Melb
    Age
    65
    Posts
    218

    Default

    Feast Watson has two types of tung oil; the commercial tung oil which has resin added to it, and the other one known as Feast Watson tung oil. Neither are pure tung oil. Looking at the MSDS of tung oil, Naphtha 30 - 60%; Turpentine 1 - 10%; d-Limonene 1 - 10%, with the balance being non - hazardous (some of which will be tung oil). My guess there is about 30 % tung oil or less. perhaps using pure tune oil from http://www.thewoodworks.com.au/index...nufacturer_id= may be better.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Seattle, Washington, USA
    Posts
    74

    Default

    In my experience, depending on the product, you should be able to get a satin to gloss, film finish with 4-6 coats of oil.

    I'm pretty enamored with Liberon Finishing Oil. Four coats plus some carnauba wax topcoat is pretty great on anything. I would try going to five coats of the F/W and, if you haven't achieved your goal with that many coats, you should consider a different product.

    Cheers,
    Luke

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