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14th July 2012, 05:20 PM #1
How many would like a procedure for welding 1.6 Duragal
"How do I weld 1.6 Duragal RHS and SHS ( hollow box section ) with a stick electrode " Is a enquiry I see often in this welding forum
The question has been posted enough times for me to do something about creating a welding procedure for it.
Its harder for Non inverter welders but can be done - just be aware I don't have a transformer machine so the procedure will be completed using an inverter type machine. I can do it as a written plus picture procedure if enough indicate that they are interested.
Grahame
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14th July 2012, 05:46 PM #2Novice
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- Jun 2012
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This one is high on my wish list
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14th July 2012, 06:14 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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- Jun 2010
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Definitely, particularly doing a tee join where you have to do a fillet each side as well as a butt weld between the end of the section and the curve of the rolled corner, where there's a significant gap.
In that situation I always skulk off and grab the MIG - knowing a workable procedure for stick would be great, particularly with pictures.
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14th July 2012, 07:57 PM #4
Something to get you started, from a few years back.
When I first did this 1.6mm tube was not too prevalent.As steel got dearer more and more 1,6mm wt was used.
I would minimise amps on this and go like buggery. It may help to cool the beads between passes. Use a wet rag and dip it back in the bucket after each cool.
Beads are built up in passes on the radiused side.
If you position from the cut side the arc will burn the edge away.
It obviously must be tacked first , but the keys are to go, quick as possible,lowest amps viable, in a "touch weld" mode.
If I can scratch up some 1.6 wall thickness I'll set one up tomorrow and go thru in stages with pics.
Grahame
Grahame
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14th July 2012, 08:33 PM #5
Looking foward to this one Grahame!!!!!
regards LouJust Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time
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14th July 2012, 09:08 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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- Jun 2010
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- Canberra
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- 737
Am I understanding correctly that you are building out a bead on the radius-ed side without attempting to bridge the gap in the first one or two passes? Then come through with a final pass to bridge the gap and complete the join?
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14th July 2012, 10:13 PM #7
RustyArc,
Yes! that's it.
Trying to bridge out off the radius edge in a pass or two is too slow, builds up the heat too much and promotes burn through.Consider that the drawing was done for a 2.4 thickness, so I have now changed the procedure a bit to minimise heat input,so don't go by what no of passes are stated in the pic text.
Clean the bead of slag every pass is all I can add.
It works consistently, once you get the knack of the rapid bead .
Quick skinny beads and cool off quickly.
Grahame
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15th July 2012, 12:41 PM #8
Sounds like the way I try to do it. Did some recently for polycarb sheeting support on my verandah build. I used the Mig. What size rods are you using?
Dean
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15th July 2012, 07:16 PM #9
Sorry guys,
Did nothing today.Both cook and I are not well to the local flu doing the rounds
Oldneweng I use 2mm or 2.6mm rods.
Grahame
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16th July 2012, 10:27 PM #10.
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Thanks Grahame.
After burning a lot of edges I kinda discovered that method by trial and error.
A couple of things that would be useful to know for thin stuff are
- mitred corners-
- how to recover from a blowout
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18th September 2012, 08:30 PM #11
What happened to this thread? I was looking forward to learning something I have always had trouble with....
Joe
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21st September 2012, 09:57 PM #12
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3rd October 2012, 05:56 PM #13
Yeah definitely interested as my previous attempts with an arc havent been good. results with the mig are far better.
www.lockwoodcanvas.com.au
I will never be the person who has everything, not when someone keeps inventing so much cool new stuff to buy.
From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".
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6th October 2012, 12:06 AM #14
Hi guys ,
I finally have got some time and here it tis, wot i said i would do.
Its text only I hope to add pics on the week end.
In welding thin wall duragal or the like I would point out that trying to achieve this with a transformer welder is a very difficult thing to achieve.
Much better results will be obtained from starting with a inverter with DC electrode set on positive current.
You have probably gone to the Duragal site and read that you don’t need to grind the weld zone.
That may well work on thicker wall material, but its odds on these fellows haven’t had a crack at this particular thin wall thickness with a stick electrode.
All right then, what if the welded area, particularly where the crater keeps showing a gas holes in the middle of the bead. I see this often when welding duragal.
The gas hole comes from gas within the molten puddle and finds an exit hole while the weld cooling back to ambient temperature. If there is no paint or grease and there is a solidified bubble like hole, something is causing it and that something is the burning zinc going gaseous within in the molten pool
To me its better to remove the offending zinc, its really not going to make all that difference.
To the welding then.
It has to be obvious but I’ll point it out anyway, if you angle your electrode square on, you are more likely to punch through the thin wall than if you angled the rod.
So the, angle the rod,may be a 60 degree angle
Next cab off the rank is travel speed. Too slow and you will burn through.
On top of this you must,! repeat must! keep a short arc length. A long arc length will drive the arc voltage up and create a hotter, bigger, arc pool ,something you do not want if welding thin wall.
Amps are relative to the low end of the amperage range for the particular diameter you happen to be using . If you are going to weld 1.6mm thickness, I would suggest a 2mm diameter electrode.
I’ll précis the preceding info
- [B]Inverter welder
- DC electrode +
- Grind off zinc
- Fast travel speed
- Angle electrode
- 2mm electrode
- Short arc [B]
The results are not always exactly perfect but still a whole lot better than other methods I have tried.
I will grab some fresh 2mm electrodes this week end as someone left them open for too long as the current ones are staring to spall. Hopefully I can provide some better pics over the week end Ok?
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30th October 2012, 03:47 PM #15
Even though I mainly use the MIG, on the odd occasion I stick it, (Transformer - not inverter) I have found that preheating the electrode first, and absolutely removing the gal first gives the best results. Even though they say you don't have to, do yourself a favour and remove it.
Geoff