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Thread: My Workbench - Mini Roubo
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14th September 2014, 10:17 PM #1Intermediate Member
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My Workbench - Mini Roubo
Hey all,
Finally started my (proper) woodworking journey over the last few weeks, and have gotten underway with my bench.
I'm building a mini roubo style bench - as much as I'd love an 8 foot long bench I don't have anywhere near that much space, so my bench is a much more conservative 4 feet long. It will suit my needs as I'm only planning to do smaller work like boxes (initially at least), and I also need somewhere to do odd-jobs etc. that isn't the kitchen counter.
It incorporates a lot of the roubo style features, and ultimately I plan on putting a leg vise in, and am toying with the idea of putting a veritas inset vise in on the other side.
Anyway...pictures...
IMG_0907.jpgIMG_0910.jpgIMG_0912.jpg
I made the cardinal sin of not taking enough pictures early on in the piece, but my basic process was as follows:
- started with the legs, 2x5 laminated structural pine - glued these up and have run them through the thickness planer;
- built the top out of 2x4 F17 hardwood, thicknessed and then biscuited and joined (the biscuits were really only for alignment - I think this was a good option truth be told). This was glued in two halves so I could run it through the thicknesser - saved so much time and effort;
- cut and thicknessed the stretchers and glued the ones that needed it
- glued the top into a single slab.
Had to move the slab earlier and even at just over 4 feet long it is heavy (and awkward for one person to move).
Anyway, stay tuned for future episodes, including my first attempt to cut mortices next weekend! Followed by my first attempt at drawboring the mortice and tenon joints.
Thanks go out to all the folks that have given advice in some of my initial threads with questions - much appreciated!.
Cheers,
Tarvis
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20th September 2014, 07:09 PM #2Intermediate Member
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Update on progress...
I've cut all the tenons now, for the stretchers as well as for the top of the legs.
I learned that I'm pretty bad at sawing straight - so i've been taking my time to try to get my cuts as accurate as possible. I've figured out a few things that work for me as I go which seem to make my cuts more accurate, so that's great.
I've started cutting the mortices today, just finished the first one (still need to clean it up some though). Pics below:
IMG_0914.jpgIMG_0915.jpg
These are pretty huge I think. 1.25 inch wide by 2 inches deep. They are taking some time and I've got 11 to go counting the underside of the bench (not doing through tenons on this bench though).
Anyway, hopefully will get a chance to push along with it tomorrow. Would be nice to finish the base off this weekend but that's another 7 mortices, not to mention I need to drawbore them and glue them up.
Cheers,
Tarvis
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20th September 2014, 11:25 PM #3
good to work in progress, we all like photo's so keep them coming. could make the statement "its not the size its how you use it"
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22nd September 2014, 09:12 AM #4Intermediate Member
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Didn't get too far with the bench on Sunday. We're having people over for grand final so I needed to clean up my mess.
That counts me out until after Saturday. Sunday might be out too depending on how the head feels!
Another point I learned from cutting the mortices Saturday, you actually need to check the squareness of the depth of your cut to the face of the surface you're cutting. I'm finding this pretty slow going to be honest.
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22nd September 2014, 07:04 PM #5
Power tools or even a hand drill can help remove waste from your mortise.
http://blog.lostartpress.com/2013/07...y-own-devices/
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23rd September 2014, 09:32 AM #6Intermediate Member
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23rd September 2014, 07:32 PM #7
I am not quite up to this stage yet on my bench build . I will most likely drill out the centre of the waste with a forstner bit.
Just be aware that only some forstners can be used in hand held drills.
If you use the router you will have the square sides you desire in the mortise but the corners will be rounded. Not a problem really as you can square the corners or round the tenons.
Routers require some skill which i am finding i need to increase. This guy gives a good explanation of routing and repairing a mortise. There are others but this one i have bookmarked.
Just for interest sake are you marking the mortise from the tenon or vice versa?
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24th September 2014, 09:25 AM #8Intermediate Member
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I don't mind cleaning the corners up with a chisel to square them - that's no problem.
I think a router is probably the way to go to make it quicker/easier...
I've cut the tenons first, and am using them to mark out the mortice height, taking all measurements from the bottom of each leg (I'm only doing the mortices in the legs at the moment).
I tried to trace them out fully and found this a bit awkward, but my strategy basically is to make sure I don't cut them too big, I can always trim the tenons for a tight fit.
Plus I'm drawboring all of these joints, so I think that gives me some relief in terms of tightness of fit. I'm trying to get them as close to perfect as possible, more to build some discipline in my work for future projects where it will matter more.
Cheers,
Tarvis
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24th September 2014, 08:44 PM #9
I would also vote for the router option.
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8th December 2014, 02:51 PM #10Intermediate Member
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Wow, started this in September and its still going - and I'm long overdue to give an update.
Here it is then...
- Build is still progressing, and have had a couple of challenges (which I'll describe below);
- Ended up buying a router (Triton) to cut the mortices in the legs - this turned out to be a great option. Certainly no longer a hand tool purist, however these mortices are straighter and can be cut in a half hour.
- Attached are a couple of photos of my first attempt at draw boring (which for 7 of the first 8 pegs was going really well)
IMG_6829.jpgIMG_6830.jpg
Challenges:
I'm learning that woodworking (for me at least) is as much about learning how to overcome problems and challenges as any other kind of building. I've had two of these to date. One occurred on the 8th peg I was drawboring when I struck it too hard and split the leg. My solution was very inelegant, but seems to have held. If it wasn't a working workbench I might've replaced the leg or tried some butterfly inserts to pull it back together.
See picture:
IMG_6834.jpg
Next challenge is a measurement issue that goes back to the start of the build. When I put the legs on the upturned top you can see that the leg depth measurement was wrong by about two inches:
IMG_6835.jpg
Given this will be the back of the bench (and these are not through tenons) I am going to recut the mortices on the back as a trapezoid shape (when looking down at the mortice), which will help lock it into the end board on the top.
Anyway, fun times. Glad to be learning this stuff now rather than making these errors on some nice furniture grade timber...
Cheers,
Tarvis
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14th December 2014, 05:14 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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keep posting Tarvis. it is good to know someone else makes mistakes, but doesn't give up. Great job on the top. that will be fantastic to work on.
Still haven't got t build my own bench, so seeing this kind of post is invaluable.
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15th December 2014, 08:50 AM #12Intermediate Member
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Thanks Bendigo Bob,
I've cut the tenons into a trapezoid on the back two legs, and have measured out all the mortices on the underside of the base.
Started the first one this weekend (one of the front, square ones). The F17 is a lot harder than the pine that I've been working with predominantly until now, so progress is a little slow.
Haven't exactly figured out how to cut a trapezoid shaped mortice, but slowly and carefully is how I suspect it needs to be done
Looks like from here it will hopefully be a finish up over Christmas some time job - depending on the temperature in my garage...
Cheers,
Tarvis
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15th December 2014, 02:08 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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had you thought of gluing an extra length onto the rear of the top? or does that make the bench too wide?
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18th December 2014, 04:51 PM #14Intermediate Member
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Hey Bendigo Bob,
I am considering that, however I will need to invest in new clamps for that to work, plus I was quite happy with the size aside from the issues mentioned. I might see how strong it is once I fit it as is, then make a decision if I think its likely to split the timber when force is applied to the bench.
Cheers,
Tarvis
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18th December 2014, 07:00 PM #15SENIOR MEMBER
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Fair enough. looking forward to seeing the finished product anyway