Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Wet sanding

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    78
    Posts
    1,332

    Default Wet sanding

    I've just tried wet sanding jarrah & silver ash, with promising results. I dry sanded to 500 grit, then used bio thinners and 600 grit W&D. It seems to give a finer surface ready for an oiled finish than dry sanding with the same grit. Does anyone else do this? If so, what grit and lubricant do you use, and are there some timbers it doesn't work well on?
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Melbourne Outer East right next to mount dande
    Age
    74
    Posts
    0

    Default

    I find that wet sanding to 1500 grit brings up a pretty nice sheen.
    I usually start with with:
    600 >800 >1200 >1500>medium cut auto cream>Auto polish

    Anything higher than 1500 is pretty much a wank I reckon but you can get up to 2500 I think at supercheap auto's.

    I am working with high gloss lacquers but the principles are the same I guess.

    I use water as a lubricant with a little detergent to give it a bit more slip.
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    East Bentleigh, Melbourne, Vic
    Age
    68
    Posts
    180

    Default

    For hardwoods, I also wet sand with up to 400 W&D on bare timber (eg Jarrah or Redgum). After a base layer of finish has been applied, I'll go to perhaps 2,000, sometimes 2,500 with soap, if it's a jewellery box, say.

    As many have said, for normal finishes, up to around 320 ~ 400 on bare timber is quite enough. I only use dry sanding on softer woods; however, using water with, say, 240 W&D can be helpful in raising the grain and then cutting it back - but you have to always sand with the grain.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Lake Macquarie
    Posts
    298

    Default

    and less dust ...
    Hurry, slowly

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    64
    Posts
    0

    Default

    For slab tables I'll use either a Tung (occasionally Danish) or Organoil. With Organoil I follow the directions explicitly: too much = matt finish in a few weeks otherwise.

    When using Tung/Danish I'll dry sand to 240/320 then flood-coat it with oil, wait about 30 mins then wipe it down. Give it a week to go off, then another coat of oil and wet-sand that from 400 through to about 1200. No sanding sealers for this li'l black duck; the above both seals and gives a mirror finish. Subsequent coats are applied more normally, with a very light 1200+grit sandimg between coats..

    Too much effort for more detailed items, a plain slab is bad enough... but it does give me truly glorious finish on the jobs where I do use it!
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

Similar Threads

  1. Problems with wet sanding
    By Leescott in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 2nd October 2005, 08:51 PM
  2. wet sanding
    By schaf in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 19th September 2005, 07:17 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •