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Thread: Railway sleeper outdoor table
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24th May 2014, 12:04 PM #1Novice
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Railway sleeper outdoor table
G'day Chaps.
Long time lurker, first time poster. I'm embarking on probably my biggest woodworking project since high school, building a table for my rear covered deck. The table top is recycled ironbark railway sleepers.
The legs I am welding together out of (130 x 6mm) flat steel bar, to give it a bold industrial sort of look. The timber being what it is has a lot of features; bolt holes, dings, and burn marks. So I'm wanting to keep it a bit rustic, but accentuate the beautiful colour and grain of the timber. I have a few questions:
1. After much reading through here, I've bought a tin of organoil outdoor furniture oil, and I've so far applied one coat to an off cut (see last photo). I'm pretty happy with the result so far. I'm thinking of doing another coat with polyurethane to see how that turns out. Any suggestions there?
2. I'm still undecided on whether to sand the surface of the table down to 180grit and have it smooth, or to leave it as it is with a slight grain feel. What would you do?
3. As you can see in the pics, there are stains from the cutting fluid they used at the mill. What would be the best way to get these off without sanding it back? I've got cabots deck clean, and napisan.
4. I'm also undecided about what to do with the edges of the table. a) leave them as they are with sharp 90 degree angles. b) lightly smooth them off by sanding c) buy an edging router and a 1/16" rounding bit. (That's $100+ investment there)
5. I've read that I should leave a gap between the boards to allow for expansion. So I planned for a 3mm gap. But since then I've seen loads of similar tables with no gap, which in my opinion does look better. Could I get away with no gap? Keep in mind this table will be under a covered outdoor deck, open to humidity but rarely getting wet.
Cheers
EDIT: Pics attached
IMG_0976.jpgIMG_0977.jpgIMG_0978.jpgIMG_0979.jpg
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24th May 2014, 12:50 PM #2
4 edges
Re edges.
I would smooth them by either sanding or routing. As you do not have a router have a go sanding the edges and see how you travel. If you invest in a router I would go for a 6 - 8mm rounding bit.
Gaps, others will have a better idea than me, but a small gap (3mm) will allow for some expansion.
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24th May 2014, 01:31 PM #3
Personally, I think the stains are ok as they are and I wouldn't do anything specific for them. I would fill the holes and cracks with a black tinted epoxy and give it all a sand and then a good oil finish (once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, then yearly).
With oil finishes, you can rejuvenate them with a quick wipe with more oil; with poly, once it looks old and worn, that's it - the only solution is to sand back and refinish.
I think oil finishes work better when you are showing off the timber; poly is always a bit like admitting 'I'd have used a sheet of plastic to make the table from but all I had was this wood'.
As for gaps - glue them shut if you like, but make sure that whatever the structure underneath is, it lets the overall tabletop grow and shrink in width rather than forcing it to be rigid (ie if it's held on by screws, the screws are through slotted holes not round holes).
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24th May 2014, 01:44 PM #4
Master splinter is right. Definitely don't use poly. Once it ages it is a real pain to refinish. Oil is your friend.
I'd stick it all together and the use slots in the frame to fix to the table, leaving room for expansion.
And if it's under cover, I'd sand it back to 240 all over, then 400 or more on the top. You can sand the edges too without too much trouble. You don't need to round it off by much to stop splinters etc.
TravSome days we are the flies; some days we are the windscreen
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24th May 2014, 01:58 PM #5Novice
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Thanks guys. Agreed with all of that, and I think I'll play it safe for my first project with regards to the edges and the gaps.
How would you suggest to cut out slots in 6mm thick steel? It was hard enough drilling 16x 5mm holes in the top of the frame.
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24th May 2014, 03:08 PM #6Novice
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One more question: Should I seal the underneath of the tabletop with poly, oil it, or just leave it raw?
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24th May 2014, 03:54 PM #7
Oil all round. I'd use the bottem as the test piece. Sand different area's to the different grits and oil it and see what it looks like and if you like it.
Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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24th May 2014, 04:22 PM #8
Make some wooden 'buttons' to hold the top to the steel frame (also means you needn't have drilled the holes in the steel!)
http://www.finewoodworking.com/media/TabletopsFlat.pdf
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24th May 2014, 04:58 PM #9Novice
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I've sanded it back to 240 now and it's looking pretty sexy. Will take it back to 400 tomorrow. Initially I did a run at 80 and 120 with the belt sander and it made some uneven grooves where I pressed down too much, its just noticeable when I run my fingers across it. Lesson learnt there.
Do you have any tips at removing talcum powder fine saw dust from the grain before I oil it up? Pressure washer?
Thanks again!
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24th May 2014, 06:01 PM #10
The water will raise the grain and then you will need to sand again. A good blow with air, compressed if you have it, or a leaf blower. Other than that a soft brush or vacuum.
You could also search for how to make a Tack Cloth (or buy one) which is basically a sticky rag that will attract and trap the fine dust.
Table is looking good so farNow proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.
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25th May 2014, 08:04 PM #11Novice
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Originally Posted by Master Splinter
Sorry I missed this bit of advice; where can you buy black tinted epoxy? I couldn't find it on the bunnings website. I've never used it before, is it easy to make a complete mess of? What are its benefits? And how do you plug up the holes to stop it from dripping through?
thanks
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2nd June 2014, 07:34 AM #12Intermediate Member
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Blak epoxy
I think you just add black pigment to ordinary epoxy...
you can buy pigment from http://Www.whitworths.com.au (not sure about bunnings)
to stop it dripping through, apply masking tape across the bottom of the hole.
you will need to re-sand though
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2nd June 2014, 06:29 PM #13
Black iron oxide pigment from the cement section of Bunnings is a good starting point, but I've also used Feast Watson Prooftint stains for a more translucent look. A mix of red and black (to give you a warm black) works well too. Buy your epoxy from a marine place (West, Botecoat brands spring to mind) as it's heaps cheaper than Araldite.
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4th June 2014, 02:57 PM #14Novice
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Thanks guys, I've ordered 1.5L of boat-cote. What's the best way to apply it - particularly into the finer cracks? I'm thinking either with a small plastic spatula or a big syringe then wipe smooth with a cloth. I can see myself making a bloody mess of it though! It's a good thing I've got lots of off-cuts to practice on...
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4th June 2014, 05:58 PM #15
If they are through cracks, seal one side with masking tape , then just pour from the mixing cup and spread out. It's pretty runny stuff.
Epoxy notes:
Read the West Epoxy website. Heaps of info there.
Don't mix more than about a cupful of epoxy at a time; otherwise you might learn what 'exothermic reaction' means.
Mix ratios are important; none of this 'about right' nonsense; use a proper measuring cup.
A hair dryer will make it runnier if you have problems (if you're keen you even warm the wood up before epoxying...ie keep it inside the night before, not out in the cold shed)