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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    15

    Default Replacing galvanised 3/4" pipe with something

    Gidday
    I have some old 3/4 inch galvanized pipe which needs to be replaced. I have been told about the Iplex K2 system which is very popular and would like some more information

    Do the fittings that join Iplex PEX pipe to 12mm Copper need to be braised (silver soldered - very hot and a pain in the neck to do) or soldered.

    What size PEX pipe to use 16mm or 20mm?

    Can you hire the hand crimping tool (Brisbane)?

    Considering the cost of the tools would it be cheaper to run copper for a 10m run and if so what size copper is usually used?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Behind that little door under the thicknesser...
    Posts
    502

    Default

    Do the fittings that join Iplex PEX pipe to 12mm Copper need to be braised (silver soldered - very hot and a pain in the neck to do) or soldered. There will be a compression/flared fitting in the range - Ausplex has one if Iplex (which looks exactly the same) doesn't

    What size PEX pipe to use 16mm or 20mm? 16mm

    Can you hire the hand crimping tool (Brisbane)? Dunno.....but our local Reece shop will lend out their Ausplex crimp tool in an emergency.

    Considering the cost of the tools would it be cheaper to run copper for a 10m run and if so what size copper is usually used? yep - because you'd have to buy a whole 50m roll of the Iplex pipe. 3/4.<!-- / message -->
    Ours is not to reason why.....only to point and giggle.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    66

    Default

    What size PEX pipe to use 16mm or 20mm? 16mm

    Sorry silent, but if you are replacing 3/4 pipe, you should replace it with 20mm

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Sydney-south
    Posts
    333

    Default

    Or you can go to Reece and buy Auspex (not ausplex) by the length (5m) and they will hire out their crimping tool (really they shouldnt unless your a plumber, but a sale is a sale) and if you can get on to a thread on the gal pipe you may not need to solder at all, unless you do join on to straight copper then you will need a braizing tail, which are designed to be silver soldered, and yes you will need 3/4 (20mm) pipe.
    PS Auspex and Iplex look the same but are infact a lot different.
    Last edited by wonderplumb; 21st April 2008 at 07:23 PM. Reason: typo
    Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Thanks for your replies.

    I have decided to go with copper. It is a straight run and I am comfortable with soldering joints.

    I cannot trust any of the gal. The small section of the same age I replaced to do the laundry taps disintergrated when I tried to unscrew it. I was amazed any water actually got through the pipe and I have had constant problems with tap washers especially the ceramics. I am told this is due to the rust in the pipes.

    To stop a small job jumping up and biting me I will just plan to take out all the old gal.

    The only question now is 16 or 20mm copper or does it really not matter seeing at though I probably have about a 3mm internal diameter at the moment?

    By the way - my hot water is done in 8mm with flared joints - I can't even find where to buy 8mm now but the hot is fine so I will leave it alone.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    On the Downs, Darling SEQld
    Posts
    885

    Default

    Does this help?
    Go to one of the Drop-Down pages

    http://www.iplex.com.au/iplex/products/pro-fit.shtm
    Navvi

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Sydney-south
    Posts
    333

    Default

    Go with 20mm mate, as it states in the standards for a water service.
    Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter

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