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18th September 2006, 11:05 PM #1
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How to handle minor drips & runs in shellac?
I have started staing my SG guiatar again with tinted shellac and overall it is coming along well.
However it is a complicated shape with curves & champfers (There's a pic in thread "Why did this happen") and in a few spots I have some minor drips & unevenness in the coats where the champfer meets horizontal.
I cannot get a decent photo to show this as they're not big & dramatic.
What's the best technique to even the colour & the coats. Will they 'fuse' over time?
Do I lightly sand? Lightly brush with alcohol? all of the above?
As I said overall it's coming up well & the task comes more under 'touch ups' than 'crash repair'.
TIA
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18th September 2006, 11:26 PM #2
the runs wont fuse into invisibilty
Trick is many light coats flattening each with 600 grit wetndry.
try sanding out the runs with a small 1" square piece of 10mm mdf wrapped in 400 grit to take of the high spots.
flatten and thinly coat until you get it even.
use a big soft sable brush.
where you cant sand properly [scallops] use 0000 steel wool.
make sure the lacquer is dry and brittle else you will pull lumps out of the coat
brush on 3 real thin coats and leave piece in a warm spot for 48 hours
flatten with 600 and 0000
repeat till you got it right
sand light as sand throughs are often imposible to cover
all this work will give a perfect surface to receive your final mirror gloss clear coat.
send picsray c
dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'
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18th September 2006, 11:35 PM #3
Why are you putting the colour into the shellac instead of dying the timber then coating with shellac? Which is a much easier, more straight forward and more durable.
What type of stain are you using in the polish? Methinks you is gunna end up in trouble if you're not really careful. Could end up with great big patches of colour coming off if you mess it up.
Best practise. Use a really good brush and don't get drips and unevenness in it to begin with.
Very lightly sand with 800 - 1200 grit wet 'n' dry abrasive using turpentine as the wet rather than water. Exercise extreme care as your 'touch ups' could very easily become a 'crash repair' or a 'major disaster area'
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19th September 2006, 07:34 AM #4
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At first I couldn't decide whether to stain or clear finish, so I put on a couple of coats of shellac to see how the timber would come up.
I decided I'd stain, but was not completely sure I could remove the shellac well enough to use water soluble dyes on the wood so I opted to tint following coats of hard shellac.
I'm using Feast Watson Proof tint - Red.
I'm finding it difficult to get good pics of this - ones that show the uneven colour clearly.
Thanks for your replies.
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19th September 2006, 04:28 PM #5
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Ok Here's a pic that I hope can show you what I mean. The uneven bit is on the side just above thae waist. It almost looks like part of the grain.
The orther reason I went this route - I love the colour I got. The water sol red came up a pukey shade with blue in it. This came up Fire Engine/Ferrari red right off & shows the grain quite well.
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