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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6

    Default Resurfacing benchtops

    Hi,

    I'm looking to resurface some unpleasant-looking laminate benchtops (only a couple of years old). Just got a quote from Granite Transformations to resurface them with their reconstituted granite product and that came out at a whacking $3000 for the 6m of benchtop (with holes for cooktop and sink). I'm looking for a cheaper option...

    Ripping them out and fitting new tops is not an option right now as some of the cabinets sit on the benchtop. How can I resurface them more easily than half-dismantling the kitchen? Is relaminating an option? (the tops are bullnose profiled, ggrrr) Could we make up a thinnish backing out of ply/MDF (with a square edge to go over the bullnose, a bit like Granite Transformations do) and laminate that, sticking it onto the old tops?

    Any other ideas welcomed!

    Thanks

    Lee

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    64
    Posts
    0

    Default

    I really, really do not recommend making packing for the bullnose to "square it up" and laminating over it. The edges of benchtops are generally where the most real mechanical stress is applied. Sure, the tops deal with abrasion, heat, cuts, etc. but the edges are continually being leaned upon, having kiddies hang from 'em, etc, etc. Odds are good that in only a few years from now you'd be regretting it!

    One option is to leave the bullnose alone, but score, cut and replace the flat laminate behind. ie. Leave the bullnose behind as an edging strip. This takes more tools, accuracy and skill to get right and removing the existing laminate is a slow, boring chore. Not for the faint-hearted but the cheapest option by far!

    Another is to remove the bullnose altogether and replace it with a new squared section, biscuitting at regular, short intervals. I'd say every 6-8". The cut should be made far enough back from the front edge of the carcase so that at a minimum two-thirds of the replacement section is receiving support from the carcase. ie. if you want a 1" overhang, then the replacement strip should be at least 3" wide and at least 2" of it should be supported by the carcase. Even better if you can rebate the existing top as well as the replacement strip for that extra bit of joint strength, but this is fiddly.

    Further, the replacement section should be constructed from the same materials as the sub-strata of the rest of the benchtop, to minimise differences in movement. This is usually 19mm particle-board, screwed and glued to bring it up to thickness... and if you just want to laminate over the existing stuff [shudder] you should laminate at least the top of the replacement section (properly too! NO GAPS!) to bring it up to matching height before laminating over the whole thing. Don't just pack it up with something else, or try to make the sub-strata thicker... ya gotta try to make it the same else you come back to movement problems.

    PS. I know particle board doesn't move much; that's why it's used! It doesn't move as much as natural wood... but it still moves and laminate becomes dry'n'brittle over time. It cracks easily when things aren't right...

    Have I scared you enough yet? Seriously, it's a lot simpler and more straight-forward than it may sound, it's just that you gotta do it properly first time else you'll pay for it in the long run.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    adelaide
    Posts
    6

    Default

    G`day doc
    i`ll have to agree with skew about the bullnosing, cut it off and replace it....
    as for the laminate if it isnt lifting, just laminate over it, hit the old laminate with a coarse belt sander so its nice and rough (and even, very important to be level with no lumps or bumps) then using a good quality contact adhesive apply new laminate
    do the edges first then the tops, having a trimmer makes this much easier but i have used a file (bastard of course rofl )
    you have to be vewy vewy careful with any joins in the surface otherwise it will look like crap
    as an alternative you couls ask a local cabinetmaker to quote, a lot of them will be happy to do the job for you, quickly and effectively
    your choice basicly two or three days handyman work one day subby work
    dollars involved will vary so get a few quotes if you go down this road
    cheers
    troppo

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