Design and build a timber frame wall

[mudjeep]

Hi,

I'm building a bathroom in my newly built shed but have no idea how to design and build the walls. It will be 2m x 2.5m.

I need to build two walls of the above dimensions (the shed itself forms the other two walls, although I will need to line it) plus an extra 1m separating wall in the room.

I appreciate any help anyone can give in what type/size of timber to use, how to design it and anything else you may think useful.

Also, any bright ideas on what to use for shower walls that won't need tiling?

Cheers,

Jason.

[pawnhead]

Since it's a bathroom, I'd use 90X45 pine @ 450 centres with a row of noggins @ max 1200 centres. You need to make sure that there's a stud on each side of the internal corners to fix the sheets to. If you want to save money, since it's just classed as partition work, then technically you could go down to using 70X38 @ 600mm centres, but the wall would be a lot less solid. You could also just use cheap metal partition stud work from a plasterboard supplier. Cut them with tin snips, and fix them with screws or pop rivets.

Stud wall

You could use HardiGlaze tile sheets on your walls to save a few $.

[Border boy]

Hey mudjeep,
Just built an office & toilet in my shed. Timber framing was 90x35, more than enough for non structural partition walls. Ceiling height for these rooms was 2400. Lined the "wet" walls with villaboard & the rest with gyprock. I'd use villaboard to line your shower area & vanity/sink area. You will need to apply a waterproofing membrane to your shower area at the very least, probably a good idea to apply it to the floor & behind the vanity as well.
Studs were at 450 centres with nogs alternated around 1200 height from floor. My shed wall height is 2700 so by building these rooms at 2400 I have created a "mezanine" storage area above the office & toilet. As it is a bathroom, you need to think & plan where you will attach things & put additional noggins in to accomodate things like toilet cisterns, shower screens, wall hung basins etc.
Just had a look at pawnheads link re stud walls - skew nailing studs. If you are building walls from scratch, it's easier to assemble the frames on the floor & nail the the studs in thru the top & bottom plates. Then just stand the walls up and secure them to the floor with dynabolts or whatever fixing method you prefer. As far as lining the walls that are the shed proper, timber is the way to go, you need to get a little creative in order to attach the timber to the (I assume) steel frame of the shed, but it makes lining much easier. I can post some photos if you need some ideas.
Have fun.

[mudjeep]

Thanks guys for the info and the links, I really appreciate it. My shed height is 3300 so I'll definately use the space above. Is there anything in particular to consider or incorporate into the design to make it load bearing?

[silentC]

I built mine as a freestanding four walled structure within the shed. Dynabolted it down to the slab and just secured it to the shed frame in a couple of places for bracing purposes.

I used 90x38 treated pine framing (in case of termites - costs a couple of bucks extra per length). As above, studs at 450mm centres, nogs at 1200mm. I framed the window openings and put extra wide reveals on, so the windows are secured in the timber frame, not to the shed walls.

Mine is also 2.4 high with a mezanine storage above. I put hanging beams over window openings (because they were too close to the top plate to install lintels because of the shed wall purlins) and used 100x45 ceiling joists. Lined the whole thing with hardiflex, which was rough enough for a shed. I used PVC H-section joiner strips and once it's painted it's OK. I lined the top of the ceiling joists with 12mm chipboard cover sheets.

[pawnhead]

I used 90x38 treated pine framing (in case of termites - costs a couple of bucks extra per length).

They've got a treated pine product now specifically designed for termite resistance.
Terminator Blue Framing

[silentC]

Yup, that's what I used. I think Termi-nator is a brand name? Mine is Hyne T2 - used it in the house as well.

[mudjeep]

Just to clarify the corners, I have to put an extra stud at each end of two opposing walls, so that when they are matched up with adjacent walls the extra stud forms a closed corner with the stud from the adjacent wall, for the purpose of fixing sheets to each wall? Eg., if I am using 90x45, I will have the end stud, a 45mm gap, then a second stud, right?

If you haven't guessed, I'm a complete newbie at this business. I had no idea what noggins were when you were all talking about them until I followed some links!

Another question: what type of nails?

Cheers all.

[pawnhead]

Eg., if I am using 90x45, I will have the end stud, a 45mm gap, then a second stud, right?

Yes, you have to support the wall sheets in the corners. You can put a short 45mm thick off-cut in between the double studs at the end, in line with your row of noggins.

Another question: what type of nails?

75mm (or 100mm) X 3.75mm bullet head (or flat head) bright.

[Burf72]

Hi there just wondering if someone can post some pics up of there shed bathroom setups, am about to attempt building one in my shed, 2.7 x 2.7 with a storage area above it. great forum have only just come across it.

[Metung]

From some of the descriptions - offices, showers, vanities etc, I'm wondering whether you blokes are actually building dog houses for when SWMBO gives you the BIG A from the main house. Wouldn't mind a decent set of plans myself if anybody has some.

[Dirty Doogie]

For a quick easy low maintenance shower recess that doesnt need tiles - use mini orb iron fixed either vertically or horizontally. OR for a hooley dooley look, go to IKEA and buy the 800 x 450 stainless steel panels they sell as splashbacks and glue them with sikaflex to the studs - SWMBO wont go in there ever becuase it will look like a gyneocologists surgery heh heh!