Rose Gum Filler Wanted

[jynks]

I need to begin the "filling" process on two long lengths (4 metres x 850w x 60mm thick) for an oudoor patio benche. Although under cover, I will need to oil them and fill with a long lasting filler.

Help wanted, what filler should I use? I guess the oil should be a Tung Oil, Linseed or Danish but I am really unsure of an appropriate filler.

I need a clear or slightly tinted filler to suit the wood, but the holes range from a quite a deep split to some small fault lines and knots.

I just need some advice on

• A choice of fillers,
• Hints on how to fill to get the best finish,
• Preferred oil for Rose Gum,
• Any other advice regarding the best possible finish.

Looking forward to everyones input please, I need to get this one right...

Regards Kelvin
PS, I can easily get better closeup pics or different angles if needed.

[Master Splinter]

For filling those splits, I would use epoxy adhesive (West or botecote) with a few drops of red and black wood tint (the feast watson prooftint range works well) added to give it a dark, slightly translucent sap like colour so that it looks like a sap inclusion; to me, that works better than an opaque filler which tends to look plasticy and unnatural. You can bulk it up in the larger holes with sawdust or other filler material, and just use the pure epoxy on the top few mm.

I would use one of the outside furniture oils rather than a basic tung or linseed oil - the furniture oil will have UV inhibitors in it which will reduce timber greying and breakdown.

Other option would be to slather it in three coats of epoxy and then a few coats of marine varnish. (the epoxy protects the timber from water, the varnish protects the epoxy from UV)

[jynks]

Thanks Master, <O</O
Will the splits continue to move? If so am I able to re pour the filler to take the gaps or remove the old filler completely?
<O</O
I have read a few posts in this forum over the past few years, Rose Gum doesn’t seem to have a good name, I hope I haven’t bought some fire wood.
<O</O
I really can’t turn back now anyway, it’s going in the Patio rain, hail or splits.<O</O
I will try to keep the oil option; the bench will be undercover, away from direct sunlight, sort of protected.
<O</O
Kel<O</O

[Master Splinter]

Movement will basically depend on how well sealed the whole thing is - the less uptake/release of moisture, the less movement you'll get. If its nice and dry, and you seal it well, it shouldn't move too much; but if its always getting wet or direct sun, then I'd expect it to continue moving.

Yes, you can pour on more epoxy to fill the cracks if they grow, but that's not an ideal situation - you're better off sealing it well to nip that in the bud. (but I'm not big in trusting slabs not to move over time unless they have been well dried).