Question about Files, Rasps, Rifflers & Burrs

[lewisgwalker]

Hi Everyone,

I am new here. I do water and/or oil gilding and finish furniture.

I am self-taught mostly [other than gilding where I received professional training many years ago]. Mostly I finish reproduction furniture... Chippendale, Sheraton, etc... ie, mainly Georgian, Regency and Victorian periods.

Now I have come across something new and need a little help.

This is the 1st time I am faced with finishing a piece which is pierced almost like lace and sanding smooth the dozens of little holes is not possible by the usual methods.

So I looked into getting some finishing files but got stuck because there is so much on offer, I do not really know where to start, so here is my question:

1. What is the difference between Files/Rasps and Rifflers/Burrs?
2. What is the correct application for each of the 4 tool types above?

I looked everywhere, even my books on traditional wood finishing and I can't find any mention of this.

I wonder if someone could kindly spend a few minutes and leave some explanatory notes.

Many thanks for your help.

Best wishes

[AlexS]

Files are made to remove metal, but will remove wood. Rasps are made to remove wood, but will not remove metal. Rifflers may be either files or rasps, and come in a variety of curved shapes and sections. Burrs are made to remove either metal or wood, but are rotary rather than linear. They are usually held in an electric drill or other rotary chuck.

For what you're doing, it sounds like you probably need fine jewellers' riffler files. They are not too expensive, and are fine enough to fit through most small piercings.

[Robson Valley]

Take a look in the Lee Valley catalog for the Handcut Rifflers ( 62W28.20)
Look also for the Detail Rifflers (62W28.35)
I use those near the end of the detail/finishing process in many of my wood carvings.
The Handcut set is most useful, the Detail set is so fine as to be practically ineffective.
So for the price, they are kind of a disappointment. Maybe for soapstone/steatite carving.
In any case, they all leave varying degrees of shredded wood surface.

If and when I want really smooth, the wood must be cut with some sort of bevelled steel edge.
In 'Carving-Speak,' the best edges are detail knives which can be handled almost like a pencil.
But then, very careful attention must be paid to honing.
As you know, cleaning out the grooves and corners is the hardest part. Sometimes easier just to
use a fine nail-set and crush the fuzzies! In a shadow anyway, very hard to detect how I did it.

[AlexS]

As you know, cleaning out the grooves and corners is the hardest part. Sometimes easier just to
use a fine nail-set and crush the fuzzies! In a shadow anyway, very hard to detect how I did it.

Good trick!
Another one is to shellac the wood before tidying up. The 'fuzzies' are set hard and will clean up without creating new ones.

[lewisgwalker]

Thank you all for taking the time to clarify this, I am in a better place now to get it right.

Much appreciated.