Blade Wall

[derekh]

We are building a masonry (besser) block Blade Wall approx 7m long and 1.8m high. The wall is not a solid infill but will have two 1.6m sections of timber lattice for asthetics and to provide light and air into the garden area behind. Our footing will be 400 wide * 200 deep with trench mesh and N12 starter bars at each end and evenly spaced in between. We will then grout fill the piers every three courses as we build.

My question is how best to fix one end to house (brick veneer) to provide stability as the other end will have a return. I'm thinking of using masonry bolts with washers to prevent crushing the expansion foam between the wall and the house. I think this could be awkward because I would have to predrill the holes into the block and the house wall and then align both holes as I set the block on the mortar bed.

Your thoughts please.
Derek

[patty]

Why attach this wall you are building to the house are you not going to have a 2 block square pier starting at the corner and tie the single block wall to it as you build it?That is a 6ft high block wall I would have thought the depth would have to have been at least 400 deep, 200 deep seem a little too shallow just my thoughts!

[derekh]

Two good points there patty and I agree with both of them.

All thoughts appreciated and considered.

[brickman]

From experience I have found the worst practice is " tieing " in new work to existing . The house footing and garden wall footing are 2 different entities , the house remains relatively stable while the wall will experience a wide range of movement fom just growing a garden alongside it and watering it yet alone the weather variations especially with an undersized footing . Even so called expansion ties only work to slide in / out but if there is a drop in either footing these can lift the brick they are inserted in resulting in a crack at the base of the brick / block which is more noticeable in render . With the grout filled cores these should give enough vertical support with any wind load , but I'd prefer to fill the lot in one pour as this eliminates a cold joint , and u should probably consider a bond beam to tie in the top course as this also increases rigidity and eliminates potential movement , cheers