Problems with staining veneer - Help!

[zanlation]

I am having a problem with applying an oil stain to Tasmanian Oak veneer glued onto plywood (speaker boxes). The walnut cabots oil stain comes away once I apply Danish Oil or Minwax Poly wipe coatings.

This what I have done:
1. Glued the Tassy Oak veneer to the plywood using Selleys Aquadhere PVA+
2. Sanded up to 1500 grit
3. Applied oil stain using paint brush and continued to use the brush until the stain dried and was consistent.
4. Waited until dry (about 2-4 days) and the applied the finishing oil with a lint-free cloth.

As soon as I apply either oil the stain comes away and I am left with a patchy and poor cover.

This is what I have considered:
1. I sanded to a too high grit for the stain to sink into the veneer
2. The glue has soaked through the veneer
What can I do to get an even stain?

[Chipman]

without seeing it, it is hard to comment. From what you have said, I might make the following suggestions.

It is very difficult to stain tassie oak with an oil based stain (this wood does not take up pigmented stains very well) You would be better off with a dye stain.
If the colour keeps comming off, you have probably built up too thick a coat of stain.

If you want to retry the oil based stain, try this

Get wet and dry paper 400 grit.
Put oil stain on the surface and sand it in along the grain until you get a paste like residue.
Next get a soft cloth and rub along the grain until all the excess is off. Finally rub in a circular motion until it is all dry and even. If this looks better than before then proceed to the next step.

Leave for a few days and then apply you Minwax wipe on poly. It will probably take 5 or 6 coats using a small piece of lint free cloth. I usually rub back with 800 grit wet and dry after the 4th coat

Hope this helps,

Chipman

[zanlation]

Thanks Chipman. Do you repeat the stain - poly - sand process 5-6 times? So, you have stain - poly - stain - poly etc?

[Chipman]

Only do the staining once.


The multiple coats is for the wipe on poly only. I build up several coats eg 4 then sand with 800 grit or steel wool and put a further two coats of wipe on poly on.

Chipman

[zanlation]

Can you suggest a dye stain?

zanlation.

[Chipman]

try Rustins or Wattyl

[AngelaPetruzzi]

If you still wanted to use an oil you can use the Livos kunos. It comes in a variety of stains but don't sand the first coat too finely otherwise you won't get the pigments to penetrate into the surface to give you the colour of whatever stain you want. You can use the same product for 2 or three coats as it has enough waxes and resins to create a seal.

[zanlation]

I managed to get the stain to stick by resanding down to 120 then up to 240. I reapplied the stain and rubbed in with 400 grid wet sand paper. I left it to dry for a few days and I was able to apply the oil without the stain rubbing off. It was still a bit patchy, but after a few coats of oil it looks quite nice.

[Chipman]

That is good to hear. Typically, the more coats of varnish you put on the better it looks.

By the way, there are sealers you can use to even out the blotchiness.

Our good host UBeaut sells a shelac based product. There others available as well.


Regards,

Chipman

[Gaza]

you can "open" the grain by wiping with water before applying stain, i would also not sand past 400G before staining.