Rests for nitro finished items

[Arron]

Is there a material that is the preferred choice for holding/supporting items that have been sprayed with nitrocellulose lacquer but might not be fully dry.

What happens is this. Sometimes I spray things that need both sides sprayed. I spray one side, then put the item in a rack to let it dry. When I think its dry, i turn it over, spray the other side, then put it back in the rack. Sometimes I get it wrong and the first side is not quite as dry as I thought it was, so it sticks slightly to the rack, marring the surface. These marks are usually tiny and a bit of pullover followed by a buffing gets rid of them, but I would rather they werent there to begin with.

So today I was wondering, is there a solution for this. Silicon ? Teflon racks ?

Cheers
Arron

[_fly_]

Always spray the bottom first and the top second.

[joe greiner]

For light weight pieces receiving multiple coats, I support them on tripods of push pins or the like. They leave an infinitesimal footprint, which is almost never duplicated on subsequent coats because of random placement. Each subsequent coat fills the pin point divot of its predecessor on that face. If there is a bottom, spray it next-to-last.

Cheers,
Joe

[Arron]

For light weight pieces receiving multiple coats, I support them on tripods of push pins or the like. They leave an infinitesimal footprint, which is almost never duplicated on subsequent coats because of random placement. Each subsequent coat fills the pin point divot of its predecessor on that face. If there is a bottom, spray it next-to-last.

Cheers,
Joe

I've thought about that but have hesitated to do it because though I can see it working for the intermediate coats I've assumed you will always end up with several little divots in the last coat.
How do you handle the last coat, or is it one of those things that just resolves itself in practise ?

Cheers
Arron

[joe greiner]

Use only 3 pins for support. More than 3 will tend to wobble. If you allow somewhat longer drying time for the next-to-last coat, it will be more resistant to indentation. The earlier coats can establish the "normal" drying time. If the pieces are very heavy, you may need to buff anyway.

Cheers,
Joe

[Arron]

Use only 3 pins for support. More than 3 will tend to wobble. If you allow somewhat longer drying time for the next-to-last coat, it will be more resistant to indentation. The earlier coats can establish the "normal" drying time. If the pieces are very heavy, you may need to buff anyway.

Now I'm thinking of getting a few squares of scrap mdf and drilling a grid of holes in them, and pushing pins into the holes where I need them according to the shape of the object. Are there any guidelines about what I should use as pins - nails - toothpicks - golf tees ???

thanks for the replies
Arron

[Chesand]

Now I'm thinking of getting a few squares of scrap mdf and drilling a grid of holes in them, and pushing pins into the holes where I need them according to the shape of the object. Are there any guidelines about what I should use as pins - nails - toothpicks - golf tees ???

thanks for the replies
Arron

If you are going to use MDF pieces, put screws from the underside and rest your objects on the points

[RETIRED]

We put 32mm staples through 19mm pine in long lines.

As Fly said, bottom first then top. On a good day they are dry by the time you put the gun away, ready to turn over.

Wait at least 12 hours before stacking on top of one another.

DSC01406 (Large).JPG

[joe greiner]

For light weight pieces, I use actual push pins (from office supplies), pushed through a piece of corrugated cardboard. Put double-face tape on the head side of the cardboard, to grasp the underside of the head for stability.

For larger and heavier pieces, I use a piece of Coroplast (Corflute in Oz) about 2" wide (in the cell direction), length to suit. Notch opposing corners to interlock when folded into a triangle. Place a wood screw (about 2 1/2" long) in a cell anywhere (but stiffer near the corners) on each side of the triangle (total of 3). The screws should be fat enough to bind in the cells. Sometimes I grind a needle point on the screw.

I'd post a picture, but uploading from my computer is pretty much hosed after the recent upgrade.

My principal source of Coroplast is roadside orphans after political campaigns.

Cheers,
Joe

[Arron]

Thanks for the tips Guys. All good. I'll give them a try when Easter is over and less neighbours are around.

Joe, I cant pretend I understand the corflute idea. If one day you can post a picture I'd be grateful.
Cheers
Arron

[joe greiner]

Here's a work-around for a picture:

Go to North Florida Woodturners > Home

Click Show-N-Tell

Click 2012

Click November

Scroll down to the second entry

Click to enlarge

These show the linking notch at mid-side. The notches are about 1" from the ends. For the one-piece version, the region between the notches is divided 1/6, 1/3, 1/3, 1/6, for fold locations.

Corrugated cardboard works too, but it's somewhat flimsy.

Cheers,
Joe

[Arron]

Thanks Joe
We have an election coming up in September- this could be the only good thing that comes out of it.
Cheers
Arron

[Bob38S]

Depending on what you are spraying - I have used drawing pins, staples from a staple gun [not office stapler] shot through cardboard, mesh stools for concreting, however, if it is a shelf or similar, drive a 2 screws part way into each end [which won't be seen later] and then hang on the screws between 2 saw horses or similar - shoot the finish, grab the screws, rotate and go again. This also works well for rubbed finishes or even brushwork.

Hope it helps.