Restoring kitchen timber bench top

[ingin1]

I have been asked to restore a kitchen bench top. It is constructed in a manner that it cannot easily (without major surrounding destruction) be removed, so it will have to done in situ. The bench top is constructed using 50w x 35d pieces of random length, glued together. In some areas the joins have opened, one 2mm and as I cannot get a clamp on to re glue, I am going to fill the cracks with an epoxy filler tinted to the colour. and then apply a polyurethane clear coat.

Question is, am I on the right track using an epoxy wood filler or can someone suggest a better product.

Thanks
Ian

[John Samuel]

Had the same problem with a Sydney Blue Gum bench top built the same as the one you are repairing.

Did what you propose, except I did not tint it, and the epoxy glue simply reflected the timber colour. The fix worked well. I refinished the top with poly and gave it a hand rubbed finish. It shone like a mirror.

Many years ago my wife bought an Asian mahogany table. I don't think the timber was properly dried, because it moved a lot and the ends of two of the edge glued joints failed. I deliberately opened the joints up so I could get clear fibreglass resin into them, and refinished the table. Unless you inspect the table minutely, the repair is invisible.

So, if my experience is any guide, you seem to be on the right path, but I would be interested in hearing of the experience of others.

[rogerjenkins]

Yes,- you are on the right track. Epoxy filler is definately waterproof, most epoxies can be tinted, ( reading the instructions on container helps as no two brands are ever the same !! ), About 8 years ago had a similar problem at a client's Holiday House here in Port Vincent. Benchtop round the sink was starting to part company at the joins, but I couldn't successfully get at the problem as the owner had built-in cupboards with overhanging shelves at each end, plus,( from memory ), there was a wide shelf across the back too just above the taps. Ended up using slow-setting Araldite, which I tinted with some oil-based woodstain so it matched the Oak benchtop, then heavy sanded where practical after the Araldite had thoroughly set, then re-coated the benchtop with polyurathane, which was a, " @#$%^&* " of a job !!!! Got well paid for that job !! - The owner did NOT complain, as he'd already had a go himself,- and gave up !!!
'ave a good day, & happy woodworking,
Roger