New Makita LS1013 User Questions

[richtara]

Hi,
I have just purchased a Makita LS1013 and have a few questions I hope some one can help with.

I have never used one of these saws before so please excuse the dumb questions

In the instructions they say
1. Before using first time you have to adjust the kerf boards - is this true as I had the impressions from reading the forum you could use this straight out of the box.
If so is there any tricks to doing this

2. There is a caution on p6 that "Before and after changing the bevel angle, always adjust the kerf boards as described above"
Is this true also as it would mean a lot of stuffing around with the tool when doing work where you want to do bevels (like i do).

Many thanks for any help,
Richard

[issatree]

Hi Richtara,
Seems like a nice pickup.
Could you please let us all know what it is that you have.
Regards,
issatree.
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[ian]

Hi,
I have just purchased a Makita LS1013 and have a few questions I hope some one can help with.

I have never used one of these saws before so please excuse the dumb questions

In the instructions they say
1. Before using first time you have to adjust the kerf boards - is this true as I had the impressions from reading the forum you could use this straight out of the box.
If so is there any tricks to doing this

2. There is a caution on p6 that "Before and after changing the bevel angle, always adjust the kerf boards as described above"
Is this true also as it would mean a lot of stuffing around with the tool when doing work where you want to do bevels (like i do).

Many thanks for any help,
Richard

on mine, the kerf boards are the soft plastic shutters either side of the blade slot in the table
you adjust them to support the underside of the timber being cut to minimise tearout
when you bevel the blade (about the horizontal axis) where the blade passes through the blade stop changes so you might adjust the shutters to suit

Also, check that the fence is square to the blade and adjust it if it's not

[richtara]

Hi Richtara,
Seems like a nice pickup.
Could you please let us all know what it is that you have.
Regards,
issatree.
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I have a Makita LS1013 compound saw.

Rich

[richtara]

on mine, the kerf boards are the soft plastic shutters either side of the blade slot in the table
you adjust them to support the underside of the timber being cut to minimise tearout
when you bevel the blade (about the horizontal axis) where the blade passes through the blade stop changes so you might adjust the shutters to suit

Also, check that the fence is square to the blade and adjust it if it's not

Ian - do you do this every time you do a bevel cut - ie adjust kerf boards?

Did you do you adjust the kerf board before first using it.

I have no problem doing it - just wandering if necessary - based on comments I have read.

Richard

[justinmcf]

hi rich, i have been using the ls1013 saws for quite a few years.
i have lost count how many i have bought, broken, and had stolen.
they are a great work horse and i am sure you will get years of precision use out of it.

i have never had to adjust anything on the ls1013, they are always perfect straight out of the box.
if you are getting a little tear out, then i guess it would be a good idea to adjust the zero clearance plates,(kerf boards). but i cant see this being a problem, especially with a brand new makita, 80 tooth blade.

ian's advice about checking the fence and blade for square, is sound advice. i always check this before making a cut with a new saw.

regards, justin.

[VEK TOOLS]

Hi,

In the instructions they say

Congratulations Richard.....you must be in the minority that read instructions......about 99.9% of people out there buying tools wouldnt even look at the cover

I would agree with the others above, one of the major problems we get with that saw thru our service department is the base locking & slide locking mechanism

[richtara]

Guys,
Thanks for the replies.

Being a person who is very inexperienced with this type of tool and appreciates having 10 fingers I thought it best to read them.

I have done a lot of hunting on the net but could not find an answer to this question.

I have read a lot of comments about people saying they used it straight out of the box and to have to do this every time would be a pain.

One of the reasons I bought this thing is to avoid this type of thing. I have an old Triton where if I want to cut different size wood or angles I have to keep adjusting the base plate - which is a real pain.

A bit of background - I am about to build a small decking and have been looking at the forum for advice - which I got. Just for one job I suppose I could have bought a Ryobi or something like that but I would rather have a tool which will last and be happy with - I hate buying tools which do not do the job. I did look at BOSCH and HITACHI. I could have got a good deal on the BOSCH 12" which tend to be on special and in the end after I get a saw stand will cost the same as the 10" Makita but I liked the Makita and suspect I couldn't go wrong with any of them - I hope.

So the suggestion is check the fence and blade for square and have a go.
I will let ya know how I go.

Once again,
Many thanks for above
Richard

[ian]

Ian - do you do this every time you do a bevel cut - ie adjust kerf boards?

Did you do you adjust the kerf board before first using it.

I have no problem doing it - just wandering if necessary - based on comments I have read.

Richard

For a deck I wouldn't bother adjusting the kerf boards, I'd only check for square

However, I also use mine for much finer work, where I'll check for square in both planes (and for excessive tearout) before making the final cut

BTW I only rarely use the horizontal bevel angles

[richtara]

Hi - I have done the first cut.

I went and got a saw stand today as don't have a lot of room on my bench.

I had other things to do (dig footings) before I could set it all up.

I did read the manual to be sure.

The first cuts was to a 3m 90x90 pole.

The cut was square from one side but not on the other. I can't remember which side with respect to the cut.

I suspect I did not have the board completely flat on the saw. Unfortunately time beat me and i did not have time for more testing - I will do tomorrow as I have to do some custs for the decking.

Richard

[Charleville]

A couple of weeks ago, I bought the 12" big brother to the LS1013, the LS1214, and I found that it was fine to use straight out of the box.

I have cut bevels at 30º and 45º angles on it and the factory set-up on the kerf boards was also fine.

With the standard blade, there was no tear-out on the materials that I have cut on the machine. Those materials range from 2X1 pine to hardwood sleepers.

Accordingly, I am in no hurry to adjust the kerf boards. However, I might if I were doing fine box work on it where I wanted to be sure that the cuts had no tear-out.

Then again, I might be tempted for that purpose to add a sacrificial MDF table surface to the saw and adjust the depth to cut partially through the MDF so as to have a zero clearance cutting surface.

Other than that though, on my experience with the saw thus far, I would not worry about adjusting the kerf boards because they would need to be readjusted every time that you cut anything other than a perpendicular 90º cut.


I am just a mug amateur like you so the tradies will have a more experienced perspective than me but that is my experience thus far.



.

[richtara]

A couple of weeks ago, I bought the 12" big brother to the LS1013, the LS1214, and I found that it was fine to use straight out of the box.

I have cut bevels at 30º and 45º angles on it and the factory set-up on the kerf boards was also fine.

With the standard blade, there was no tear-out on the materials that I have cut on the machine. Those materials range from 2X1 pine to hardwood sleepers.

Accordingly, I am in no hurry to adjust the kerf boards. However, I might if I were doing fine box work on it where I wanted to be sure that the cuts had no tear-out.

Then again, I might be tempted for that purpose to add a sacrificial MDF table surface to the saw and adjust the depth to cut partially through the MDF so as to have a zero clearance cutting surface.

Other than that though, on my experience with the saw thus far, I would not worry about adjusting the kerf boards because they would need to be readjusted every time that you cut anything other than a perpendicular 90º cut.


I am just a mug amateur like you so the tradies will have a more experienced perspective than me but that is my experience thus far.



.

Thanks for the reply - calling me a mug amateur is giving me greater credibility than I deserve..

I used it today for some test cuts - inclung a 45 degree cut and worked well.

The only thing I found that didn't work well is when I tried doing some mitre cuts on a 90x90 post. I found the cuts on the fence side were not as deep as on the front side.
I had to put a board between fence and the wood i was cutting. perhaps i was doing something wrong?

Richard

[richtara]

Hi,
I have been using the Makita all weekend and at last count I still have 10 figures

Some observations

• I still had to use the Triton for ripping so it still has a use
• When cutting joints on my posts I found I had to put a block between the fence and the wood as it was not cutting the full depth right through the wood. The triton does this just as well but not as easy to set up. I very much like the fact you set your depth on the Makita and then save it - unless you change it and eas to swith between the full cut and depth cut. Ya still have to chisel out the wood as well - no magic anser there
• It cuts like a dream I can't get over how easy it cuts and how much dust it produces - see next point
• When using a mask and goggle my goggles fogged up - nothing to do with the Makita excpt I felt afer using it than whne the same thing happen while ripping some wood on the triton
• When cutting 45degress you had to shorten the wood first.
• The Dewat stand is VERY useful when cutting large bits of wood
• There ismore but can't think of them at the moment

So far I am happy with my purchase.

Richard

[old pete]

Hi Richtara,

Its worth getting this right from the start. I have a LS1212 that has made literally thousands of cuts many of them 100 x 100 profile as I use it for breaking down stock for turning plus fine joinery on the side.

I'd suggest the first thing you do if you are going to use the saw for fine workshop work is to set it up rigidly by bolting to a dedicated bench then build yourself an extension table and associated fixed fence either side of the machine. I have 2400 mm length to the left and 1200 mm to the right. Then adjust these fences laterally to be perfectly parallel with the little fence on the machine in the horizontal plane. Then shim to fence base with shim brass until you have the vertical alignment just right over the whole length of both fences. Bolt the fences down solid then make the necessary adjustments with further shimming and bolt down again. I took two days to build the fences, set the whole issue up and adjust it and I had a large rock solid bench to do it on to start with. I made my extension base 125mm in width and the height of the fixed fence about 100mm. Is it worth the effort? well it is to me as i can make a crosscut and leave a fine line showing all round on 100mm square stock.

When I'm doing any sort of definitive work I place a sacrificial cutting board made of 3mm MDF on the base of the saw table and extension table and also against the fence behind the work piece being sawn. Every cut I make a move the sacrificial boards along perhaps 15 mm. This approach makes the so called kerf boards irrelevant: In effect you are working every cut to a zero clearance set up and you will get no breakout at all.

What do i do if I want to crosscut wider that 125 you ask?? I make the cut on the sliding table of my SCM 300mm cabinet saw which has a scribing blade but the space in my workshop precludes me using this machine for material longer than about 1200 to left of blade. That's why I went to the trouble of getting the LS 1212 set up as a precision machine for tackling longer stock. Theres a couple of disadvantages in this approach the first being that you cant use the saw any more for site work as well so buy a cheapie for that. The second is that catching dust from these machines is a PITA and unless you have room behind to set up a massive catching box you have dust all over the show all the time and that's bad.

On a safety note these types of saws have a very nasty habit of picking up small offcuts from the bench as they are raised. These offcuts can go round inside the safety guard and emerge as high speed projectiles usually to the right of the saw. This danger can be eliminated by allowing the blade to stop rotating before raising it if you are doing a job that generates small off cuts.Also I never look to right of the blade when this risk exists.

Good luck I guarantee you will be pleased for years to come if you adopt my approach setting your saw up. It's a lot of bu ering about but it's well worth the effort./

Best regards Old Pete

[Charleville]

Hi,
I have been using the Makita all weekend and at last count I still have 10 figures

Well done! That is a good start.

I can't get over ......how much dust it produces

Ah yes - they do produce a truck load of sawdust.

I tried positioning a fan to blow the dust out the door when I first started using my L1214 but that was less than successful.

I then hooked up my Aldi shop vac to the dust port and although not collecting all of the dust, that does a pretty good job. Much better than I expected actually.

The Aldi shop vacs appear in their weekly sales catalogues every few months and at around $100 are damn good value. I was alerted to them by other posts on this website and I can vouch for their efficacy and good value for the $.

Anyway, try connecting a vac to the exhaust port if the dust is a nuisance to you. Like I said - not perfect but not too bad either.


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