Stable finish for jarrah coffee table

[djmf]

I've been working on a jarrah coffee table and I'm looking for a suitable finish. I really like traditional wax over the raw timber, but when I tried a sample I found that it was quite heat sensitive (especially when I used EEE on the raw wood before applying the wax - any thoughts on why this might be?), particularly when the heat was in the form of a spilt cup of tea - not ideal for a coffee table! I'd prefer to steer away from polyurethane finishes, since I think they're ugly, and I've heard of people having trouble with finishes flaking off in layers after a few years. Are there any renewable wax finishes that are more heat stable, or is there any approach to making traditional wax more heat/water stable? Thanks

[cellist]

I've been working on a jarrah coffee table and I'm looking for a suitable finish. I really like traditional wax over the raw timber, but when I tried a sample I found that it was quite heat sensitive (especially when I used EEE on the raw wood before applying the wax - any thoughts on why this might be?), particularly when the heat was in the form of a spilt cup of tea - not ideal for a coffee table! I'd prefer to steer away from polyurethane finishes, since I think they're ugly, and I've heard of people having trouble with finishes flaking off in layers after a few years. Are there any renewable wax finishes that are more heat stable, or is there any approach to making traditional wax more heat/water stable? Thanks

Hi. I use a Gilly Stephenson carnauba paste wax on my tables and they do very well with heat and water. Just polish any marks out with a soft cloth. I do disagree with you about Polyurethane, though. I use it this way: Dilute some good stuff (I use Feast Watson) with about 10-20% mineral turps. WIPE it on....not brush...with a soft cloth and build coats, sanding very lightly between with 400 grit paper. When you are satisfied with the build, rub the top coat back with some 0000 steel wool with a good oil, like Danish Teak Oil, and then apply the wax polish. Comes up unbelievably gorgeous, and very "close to the wood" in appearance.
Michael

[Jerryj]

Hi was interested in your reply Cellist what do you consider is a soft cloth ie would cotton tee shirt type material be ok Thanks Jerry

[cellist]

Hi was interested in your reply Cellist what do you consider is a soft cloth ie would cotton tee shirt type material be ok Thanks Jerry

Hi Jerry. Yes, T-shirt material will do nicely, and I would use enough to form a ball about the size of an egg or so. I took this technique from watching some YouTube videos about French polishing. Recommended, and a good place to learn some of the basics. The idea is to get something that's absorbent, but that won't leave streaks. So, make a ball that has no creases in it, if you know what I mean.

If you are doing a lot of polishing, you could make a "tampon" by putting a small amount of wool (yarn or some old sock cut up) inside, to keep a supply of the finish, which you just gradually squeeze through the cloth. French polishers use linen for the outside. There's linen and there's linen, and I don't claim to be any kind of an expert on that stuff. But I do know that there is coarse linen and very find linen. I imagine that the latter will be what you'd be looking for.

Finally, French polishers, because they are using an oil/spirit/shellac mixture (often), they keep their little tampons in a jar with a tightly fitting lid, and they won't dry out there. That way you can apply coat after coat without having to make a new pad each time.

Let us know how you go!

Cheers,
Michael

[Tex B]

I have used Minwax Wipe on Poly on Jarrah with great results. Easy to apply, just follow the directions on the tin - wipe it on, let it sit a bit, wipe it off. I found 4 thin coats (letting it dry in between) came up a treat. You can put wax over the top if you want a bit more shine.

Have also used a tung oil/boiled linseed oil/poly mix (1/3 each) which is a bit thicker to apply, takes a bit longer to dry, but leaves a lovely warm finish. Again just wipe on kind of thick, let it sit a few minutes, and wipe it off. This would need to cure 2-3 weeks before waxing, but can then take wax very nicely.

I think the oil in both of these finishes really makes jarrah 'pop', brings out the beauty of the wood, and keeps it looking rich for years.

Tex

[Jerryj]

Hi thanks for your quick reply Michael I had a look at your sight some fine looking peices on display. Maybe I could ask further questions with regard to the last answer when putting on the poly thats when you use the ball of cloth is that correct. Also I am just finishing a picture frame and I applied my second coat of poly after it had dried I had two spots which looked like they were allmost stared of poly or extremly matt compared with the rest of the frame. I lightly rubbed the frame back and applied another coat it is not dry yet but I can see that there is "dry looking spots" already very disappointing as the rest of the frame looks great. I am using Feast Watsons poly brushed on as I did not read your email till later. I was just thinking after a light rub I wiped the frame off with towelling then blew it off with an air line, perhaps containation from my compressor, please if you have any thoughts let me know Jerry

[cellist]

Hi thanks for your quick reply Michael I had a look at your sight some fine looking peices on display. Maybe I could ask further questions with regard to the last answer when putting on the poly thats when you use the ball of cloth is that correct. Also I am just finishing a picture frame and I applied my second coat of poly after it had dried I had two spots which looked like they were allmost stared of poly or extremly matt compared with the rest of the frame. I lightly rubbed the frame back and applied another coat it is not dry yet but I can see that there is "dry looking spots" already very disappointing as the rest of the frame looks great. I am using Feast Watsons poly brushed on as I did not read your email till later. I was just thinking after a light rub I wiped the frame off with towelling then blew it off with an air line, perhaps containation from my compressor, please if you have any thoughts let me know Jerry

Hi Jerry. Thanks for the kind words! Sounds like a possible glue problem...
Is that possible? I don't know what timber you are coating, but some are a bit "thirsty" in areas and less so in others. Oregon, for example, has very hard parts and very soft ones. No matter....you need to think of the first coats as sealers, I think. Persist and keep rubbing back (and with nothing more serious than 400 grit paper, or you will remove the coat you just put on!). I use a tack cloth (available from Bunnies and other places) to remove sanding dust.

Also, was there are recommended ways to use a brush with poly. If memory serves me, you are meant to soak a new brush in mineral turps for a while before using it. Let the turps wick up the bristles, then use it. A hint if using a brush: When you are finished with a coat, wrap the bristles and ferule in cling wrap. Don't bother cleaning it at all. The brush will be as if just dipped for your next coat!

That said, do try the wipe-on method and see how you go. If the wood is drinking, that's one thing. But if there is any wax or glue on the original timber, you will have problems.

All the best!
Michael

[Jerryj]

Thanks agin Michael I will get some turps tomorrow. Ther is no glue or anything on the timber (its Jarrah) . When I said looks like dry spots its not actually dry as the first coat has not been rubbed throught, the more I think about it I think its posibly containation from my compressor, I will rub down with 400 and lightly wipe with turps and try again, if the patches still remain I was wondering if rubbing with steel wool and waxing might fix the problem Cheers Jerry

[cellist]

Thanks agin Michael I will get some turps tomorrow. Ther is no glue or anything on the timber (its Jarrah) . When I said looks like dry spots its not actually dry as the first coat has not been rubbed throught, the more I think about it I think its posibly containation from my compressor, I will rub down with 400 and lightly wipe with turps and try again, if the patches still remain I was wondering if rubbing with steel wool and waxing might fix the problem Cheers Jerry

Sure, Jerry. I agree with sanding it back and re-coating, but if that doesn't cure it (and I would apply 3 or 4 coats, rubbing back lightly in between), then steel wool and wax will only hide the problem a bit. You really want a high-quality substrate before waxing. Also, don't use any steel wool coarser than 0000 or you'll mess things up....and don't use the steel wool without a lubricant, as I think you would appreciate. I have used Danish Teak Oil as a rule, but I've also had fine results when using pure orange oil. (It smells a hell of a lot nicer, is non-toxic, and still does the job.)

One more tip: Don't rub too hard with the 0000. All you will be doing is taking out any bubbles and re-integrating the finish. For that reason, I choose to not let the last coat "go off" completely, rather working the oil and steel wool while the finish is still a little bit pliable. The oil helps move the poly around and it comes out perfectly smooth. I've heard that some use wet 'n dry paper (up to 1200 grit) with oil, and my guess is that that would be an even finer finish. I have a motto though: Settle for Excellence. Perfection is a waste of time!

Let us know how you go.
Michael

[Jerryj]

Hi Michael I went down the shed again last night and rubbed it down again with 400 grit, then I wiped off with a new clean cloth and recoated it now the fourth coat. Hey presto all well. I am sure that it was contamination either the old towel I was using or the airline. I will get a filter for the airline as well. I an not going to steel wool and wax this peice as I like the finish I have got and there are time restraints with christmas fast approaching. But I will try wiping on the poly next time and also the steel wool wax finish just to see what it is like. Do you put the poly on thick or thin. Thanks for you help Cheers Jerry

[cellist]

Hi Michael I went down the shed again last night and rubbed it down again with 400 grit, then I wiped off with a new clean cloth and recoated it now the fourth coat. Hey presto all well. I am sure that it was contamination either the old towel I was using or the airline. I will get a filter for the airline as well. I an not going to steel wool and wax this peice as I like the finish I have got and there are time restraints with christmas fast approaching. But I will try wiping on the poly next time and also the steel wool wax finish just to see what it is like. Do you put the poly on thick or thin. Thanks for you help Cheers Jerry

Glad to hear that it's all worked out, Jerry!
Do yourself a favour and buy a tack cloth for next time to remove the sanding dust. You need to do this after each successive grit, as the particles from the last one used will mar the surface of the new finer paper.

If you're happy with the finish, then it's good enough! That's a term I have trouble coming to terms with, which is a defect in my character. Hard to know what's "good enough".

I try to put on something between a thin and a thick coat. That is to say, I do more than just wet the surface each time, but not so much as to have to deal with streaks. It's a 'feel' you develop, I guess. As with all things, next time will certainly be easier. Best of luck, and if you think I can help you in future, do get in touch with a message.

Michael