Suggestions for restoring teak bench top

[HandyWannabe]

Hi All,

I bought a teak kitchen, consisting of a single straight bench, and an L shaped servery.

I plan on putting the kitchen in my backyard, under a very big pergola, so it will stay dry from the rain, and it should not get any frost..

The bench top is in pretty good condition, with some sort of finish on top, I have no idea how it has been finished, whether it is just oil or some sort of varnish.. I have attached photos of the servery, which may assist in identifying what finish has been applied.

There are some scuff marks, which has exposed the raw teak (I hope it is teak). So I would like to sand the whole bench back, and re-apply the same finish, and make it as water proof as possible. The only water I would expect to get on the bench tops is the water from the sink or the bench being wiped down with a damp cloth.

Could some of your experts provide any suggestions on what sort of finish is on the bench tops, how I should go about sanding it (I have bought a sander), and how I should finish it..

I like to try fixing things myself, I would not consider myself super handy, but I think I can do a reasonable job on most handy work, after I do research or get advice on how to do the job.

Oh, I live in Beecroft Sydney, so any advice on the best place to get the finish would be fantastic. I also presume that Bunnings would stock most of the finish, but I don't know if they would be quality products..

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

[JB]

Difficult to identify any finish from photos. Kitchen bench tops are often finished in estapol or polyurethane, sometimes two-pack. Suggest you apply one pack poly. Hardware can advise. What's your sanding question?

[HandyWannabe]

Thanks for your response Rusty. There is a piece of the bench that I can take to the hardware store and get their advice on what has been applied, and what they recommend to apply.

I guess I wanted to know what grade and type of sand paper I should use, as I don't want to take too much off and make more work for myself.

Also, would people suggest sanding by hand or using the sander? And if using hand, should I use a sanding block and circular motion?

I have also been reading about wax and teak oil, and was wondering whether they would or should be used in my situation.

Cheers.

[JB]

What sort of sander have you bought - belt sander, orbital, random?

Forget the Teak Oil and wax, just apply a synthetic finish straight out of the tin and leave it at that.

[brizylad]

There is a lady by the name of Shannon Lush, who is an arts restorer, with a segment on the local radio.

When people ring up about what type of finish is on timber she suggests that they heat up a pin and touch it to the surface.

This will produce a smell and by the type of smell you can ascertain what the finish probably is.

Smells like hair....shellac
Smells like rubber....poly
Smells like electrical...varnish or oil

Can try it myself 'cause I can't smell very much these days, but she swears by it.

Stuart J.

[HandyWannabe]

What sort of sander have you bought - belt sander, orbital, random?

Forget the Teak Oil and wax, just apply a synthetic finish straight out of the tin and leave it at that.

Rusty, I think the sander I have is orbital, as it says it does 10,000 orbits per minute..

So do you think the finish will provide some sort of protection from the water?

[HandyWannabe]

There is a lady by the name of Shannon Lush, who is an arts restorer, with a segment on the local radio.

When people ring up about what type of finish is on timber she suggests that they heat up a pin and touch it to the surface.

This will produce a smell and by the type of smell you can ascertain what the finish probably is.

Smells like hair....shellac
Smells like rubber....poly
Smells like electrical...varnish or oil

Can try it myself 'cause I can't smell very much these days, but she swears by it.

Stuart J.

Thanks for the suggestion Stuart, the heated pin technique sounds feasible. Since I need to get the varnish from the hardware anyway, I might just take a section of the tabletop to show them, and hopefully they can work it out when they see it.

Cheers.

[JB]

Rusty, I think the sander I have is orbital, as it says it does 10,000 orbits per minute..

So do you think the finish will provide some sort of protection from the water?

With an orbital sander you will probably need to start with 80grit sandpaper followed by 120, 180, 240 and finishing with 320 (optional). Buy a dust mask or better still sand in a windy spot!

Yes the modern synthetic finishes will give full protection from water if applied correctly. The danger areas are edges (ie sink inserts) so seal these well with silicon or whatever.

Okay, I've just re-read you original post and see you are installing the kitchen outside, protected. The poly or estapol should still be okay but some will be better suited to outside than others. Hardware/paint shop can advise further.