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Thread: A huge drum sander
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9th April 2007, 10:41 PM #1
A huge drum sander
Hi!
A few monts ago, surfing in the web, I discovered the best of the best woodworking site: this one. Well, inspired by Redgy, Sturdee and Auld Basoom (good job, guys!), I decided to build a homemade drum sander, to work smart, not hard and save a lot of time. Finally, I decide to design a drum with 160 mm diameter, 1100 mm lenght. Last week I started the effective workLucian
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9th April 2007, 11:06 PM #2
Lucian,
welcome to (probably) our first Romanian member. If you have the means, please post pictures of your progress.
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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10th April 2007, 03:01 AM #3
Gidday and welcome Lucian
Sooo?? wheres the pics??? mmmmm??Believe me there IS life beyond marriage!!! Relax breathe and smile learn to laugh again from the heart so it reaches the eyes!!
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11th April 2007, 01:56 AM #4
Some pictures will be here in 2-3 daysLucian
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13th April 2007, 07:16 AM #5
G’day all!<O</O
<O</O
Well, here’s the first lot of my drum sander’s pics. As you can see in these pics, my drum sander is a both metal & woodworking<O</OLucian
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13th April 2007, 07:31 AM #6
The shaft of the drum is a 32 mm steel bar, equipped with a pair of 6305 ball bearings, mounted in 2 pillow (plummer) block housings. Between pillow blocks, 2 threaded zones is designed for the 2 screwed flanges. Between flanges are glued the discs of chipboard. All of these parts are designed by me using a CAD software.
Metal parts are manufactured in a small factory by 2 friends of mine, George & Dan (thanks again guys, you are the best workers for me!) using my plans
I’ve been cut circular pieces of 18 mm of chipboard using a saber saw (I don’t have a band saw) & a 1mm hole drilled in the each center of circle (drawn at 165 mm diameter with a compass). After that, I’ve drilled all circular pieces with 32.5 mm, except the first & last disc of drum sander, which are drilled with 50 mm diameter.
After these operations me, my dad & my mom (thanks!) we glued up the drum sander.After the glue was hardened I rough up the drum to 160 mm diameter, using a router and a jig just like other guys do for equal diameter along the drum.
The frame is 40x30 mm rectangular tube, assembled by arc welding. This one is not ready yet and, in fact it’s just dotty welded and partial
In pics you can see all parts described above + a pulley & a V beltLucian
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13th April 2007, 07:34 AM #7
Unfortunately, my work progress will be very slow, because I can work only one day/week, Saturday. So, be patient with me
Any ideas, comments, suggestions welcome
Cheers!Lucian
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13th April 2007, 09:39 AM #8Deceased
- Join Date
- Jun 2003
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Looking good so far. Different methods used to make the drum but both of us arrived at the same thing, being a true drum.
Keep it up. I'll be watching your progress with interest.
Peter.
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28th April 2007, 01:02 AM #9SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2005
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Golden Earring, your link is gone in your firsty post, any chance of a working link to the mystery site...
Hurry, slowly
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28th April 2007, 01:29 AM #10
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13th May 2007, 09:40 PM #11
Hi!
After a veeeerrrry long break (1 month) I restart work at my drum sander. Yesterday, the frame was finished (excepting painting of course). Perhaps, the final color will be sky-blue, like my all machinesLucian
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13th May 2007, 09:44 PM #12
An electromotor (2.2 kw/2900 rpm) is prepared for mounting on the drum sander (probably next week)
Lucian
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2nd June 2007, 06:56 PM #13
Drum sander vibrations
My drum sander have a lot of vibrations each part: frame, drum & table. Any suggestion welcome.
Lucian
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2nd June 2007, 11:03 PM #14
Hi golden earring,
Assuming your drum is all balanced and the bearings aligned etc, I would suggest your frame is insufficiently rigid. You have a large rotating mass there, with some large unbraced areas, and the steel you've used is fairly lightweight when compared to an industrial sander. My immediate suggestion would be to brace the centre section where the bearings are mounted, as in the drawing attached. At least that way the area is connected to somewhere rigid. Another way would be to weld a solid plate (say 100 x 6mm) all the way under your top rail, but that still doesn't transfer forces to a rigid corner. I would also add diagonal braces to the other two sides, in opposite directions, and see what happens.
Good luck with itAndy Mac
Change is inevitable, growth is optional.
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4th June 2007, 11:55 AM #15
you have a pretty large rotating mass there and as the chipboard wont be alll that consistent you will almost cretainly have a bit of out of ballance.
a couple of things that may help.... reducing the speed at which the drum rotates...What speed do you have it spinning at.
I would expect a few hundred RPM would be reasonable.
the other thing is mass.
If the drum weighs "X" if the frame is to surpress or controll vibration significantly it will need to be at least as heavy if not heavier.
A quantity of sand or gravel in the base would be worth considering.... at a push rocks bricks stones or a cast lump of concrete would work.
our last diswasher and our front loader washing machine had "special" blocks of concrete inside them to add weight.
I agree that you need to improve the rigidity of the frame too.
The bearings are in the middle of a span of light steel.
these lengths of steel willl flex (minutely) allowing the drum to occilate.
remember this is a big piece of machinery you are building.... it will probaly need to be heavy.
bolting it down may help but only a little.
cheers
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.