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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, Qld
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    438

    Question Cut & polish lacquer

    I've lacquered (Mirotone pre-cat 60%) two red cedar small tables and want to "deplasticise" the look a bit. May have put the last coat (of 3) on a tad thick. Any suggestions on methods and materials would be appreciated. I've tried Danish wax (not oil) applied vigorously with 0000 steel wool but a little bit more cutting and a higher finish would be better. Admin suggested U-Beaut EEE in a separate thread -- anyone had experience with this?
    Rusty

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Kyabram
    Age
    45
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    684

    Default

    Yes!

    If your finish is really thick, you may want to start with some 2000 odd grit Wet Dry paper (and a little water).

    Other than that, I have recently use EEE and the 75mm swansdown mop on a coffee table that I finished with Rustins Plastic Coating (it was early days, and I figured coffee tables get heaps of abuse, I wanted that sucker indestructible. Still, I'm not sorry I did it).

    The finish didn't flow as well as I wanted so after all this time I used the EEE on it (bought it at the WW show).

    Worked a treat, shines very nicely now, which helps you to look through the finish and see the timber, helping you to not notice the finish.

    Based on the theroy (sp) that a matt finsh is simply "fuzzy" on top.
    The higher the gloss, the more light going through the finish.

    BTW EEE won't smooth out bumps.


    Ben.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, Qld
    Posts
    438

    Default Swansdown mop

    What's a Swansdown mop Ben? Is it essential to use that as well?
    Rusty

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Kyabram
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    Default

    It's basicly a buffer, the name "mop" is a little confusing.

    Have a look here then go to "Swansdown Mop" near the bottom of the list.

    You don't have to use a mop, but it sure makes it easier.

    I put mine on the drill.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, Qld
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    438

    Default

    Thanks Ben. I'll probably use EEE or something similar + elbow grease.
    Rusty

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    4,229

    Default

    G'day.

    I was talking to a Mirotone distributor yesterday & he says to just put a coat of the 30% over the top of what you have.

    He reckones you can put Mirotone on top of Mirotone on top of Mirotone & it all bonds together as one coat & if the last coat is too shiny or not shiny enough, put another coat over it in a higher or lower gloss & it will fix it.
    He says you can put gloss over matt & it will be gloss or matt over gloss & it will be matt.

    Try it, all you have to loose (save) is elbow grease.
    Last edited by Cliff Rogers; 10th December 2004 at 12:39 PM. Reason: Fix spelling
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    7,769

    Default

    Cliff's suggestion is the most practical one.
    Most commercial furniture is finished with 30%.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

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