Danish oil over existing Organoil

[Mick C]

Hi - I have just finished using Organoil hard burnishing oil on a silky oak table top. This is the second time I've stripped (the top)and had a go - I'm obviously missing something in the instructions, as I know that this is a highly-regarded finish. The surface is randomly blotchy, with areas that are matt and others that are ok.
Does anyone know how to recover the finish (without starting again).
If not, I'll cut my losses and use Danish Oil. What I'd like advice on is - what do I need to do to prepare the Organoiled top prior to using Danish Oil. Are they even compatible?
I'm thinking of using steel wool or fine sand paper to rough-up the areas where the oil has been case hardened in the burnishing process, and then apply Danish Oil. Do I need to use a solvent for the Organoil? What I don't want to do is strip the whole lot again.
I'm sure I'm not the first person this has happened to - any advice would be appreciated.

Mick C

[PAH1]

Hi

You will probably find that the blotches are due to the medullary rays. This will be rather noticable if the timber is quatersawn, but backsawn material also shows the rays. The rays are very much more porous than the actual timber and so the finish sinks in a great deal more. Sanding sealer then waxing is better but not completely, lacquer or polyurethane are better choices if you really don't like the pattern.

I have just finished a jwelery box in Cardwellia and used sanding sealer then wax rather than Organ oil, however you are still able to see some matt finish on the rays, I rather like it as it displays a contrast.

Hope that helps

Peter