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Thread: Exclusive furniture finishing
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20th November 2012, 01:21 AM #1
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Exclusive furniture finishing
Hi all professionals, I'd move from oil finishes, to all sort of brushed paint finishes, and now move on to lacquers.
heres the story, I bought earless 6900, spray great, I'm using Mirotone pre-catalysed lacquer, I used pc3244 for sealing, and pc3220(semi gloss) for finishing. I used 50/50 method.
I used belt sander to sand it down to 120g, then 120g orbital sander, then 180g the rectangular finishing sander, after applied sealer, I used 180g sand it down again, I applied 3 Coates of sealer, then, I applied 3 Coates of finishing top. It's smooth, no orange peal, but, the real problem is, no matter how I try, it's still not as smooth as those in the shop! I thought mine is smooth enough, but then I went to exclusive furniture store, it's a whole new level again!
so I want to ask, in details, most importantly, grit of sand paper used in stages, and time of sanding? Because I sanded down with orbital sander it tooks me 20 minutes to smoother it up, is it too short? But it touches smooth? Please.. Need help, I'm frustrated .. Spent so much time and money but has no result yet(((((
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20th November 2012, 01:23 AM #2
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A good example of what I want is bedrock furniture!
Bedrock Furniture, Hand Made Jarrah Slab Furniture, Perth Rockingham - Western Australia, Coffin Bay - South Australia | Gallery
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20th November 2012, 08:22 AM #3
Sanding to 3-400 with an orbital sander should give you a smoother finish.
Are you sanding between coats. or just building up a thick layer?
And looking at that link, are you sure that stuff is polyurethane and not an oil finish? If you work up to 2000-4000 grits with oil you can get a finish like that. (and for their prices I'd be expecting something with that much work in it, not just a quick squirt of poly!)
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20th November 2012, 11:02 AM #4
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20th November 2012, 03:28 PM #5
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Really?? With oil??!! How's that possible? I thought oil can only gives you a matte dead finish???
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20th November 2012, 04:21 PM #6
Hi Jovian,
Try this.
1. Sand dry up to 400g. Wipe off dust and finger marks
2. Flood the work piece with Wattyl Teak (Scandinavian) Oil and allow the oil to soak in for about 15-30 minutes. If the oil appears to dry out in some patches, just wipe the oil over the surface again
3. After the time is up, wet the timber with oil again and begin sanding, using the 400g you last used for sanding dry.
4. Sand with a Random Orbital Sander using 800, 1200, 1500g and if you can get it 2000 and 4000g. Sand back and forth on each piece of the surface using 10 back and forth movements for each strip you sand.
5. After you have sanded with the highest grit you have, wipe down with a soft, dry cotton cloth. Then inspect the finish. It will be beautiful.
That's it.
You can buy a small 250ml can of the oil from most hardware stores, so get a small can and try out the method. If you have any problems, let me know.
Enjoy!
Here's another example
Regards,
Rob
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20th November 2012, 06:00 PM #7
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Getting back to your question about pre-cat lacquer - I use Wattyl products rather then Mirotone but I think its pretty much the same. These are my steps to a quick but silky smooth finish.
1. Sand to 180 grit.
2. Rough fill with Timbermate.
3. Sand to 320 grit, sometimes 400. Remove all the dust.
4. Spray with sanding sealer. Sometimes I do 2 coats sealer.
5. Wet sand with 500 or 800. The sealer I use works so well its more like just a wipe over then sanding.
6. Spray with 2 or 3 coats lacquer. Sand between coats only if it needs it.
7. A couple of days later, rub and buff hard with car polishing compound. This step makes it silky smooth to touch. It also makes it look better - more mellow and less plasticy.
Teaching yourself to spray paint clear finishes is no easy task.
cheers
ArronApologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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20th November 2012, 11:36 PM #8
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this is a whole new level of oil finishing i was wondering why my oil finish is damn smooth to touch but has no shine, no i realize the grit of sand paper used. because in the forum i read somewhere about do not use more than 240G its a waste. i didn't know you can actually go up to 3000...4000 g!!! thanks!! will try that!!! gonna find a piece of off cut to get it a try! i never know there's teak oil available in Wattyl brand! thnks!!! much appreciated!
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20th November 2012, 11:41 PM #9
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21st November 2012, 05:57 AM #10
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Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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21st November 2012, 02:59 PM #11
Hi Jovian
I'll put my hand up to support LGS and Aaron with the Wattyl Teak Oil finish by burnishing the oil with the random orbital sander. LGS posted his method several times in Finishing and I bit the bullet and finally tried it. I made a hash of my first effort due to stupidity (I'm really good with that), but LGS guided me through the correct method, and the second attempt was a huge success. I've since done it on 7 or 8 little item and I find it to be actually quicker and less effort than my previous preferred method.
This week I whipped up a quick utility box for my sister's birthday and have included a pic. It isn't completely finished, all I have done at this stage is the oil burnishing. I now like to leave it for 24 hours before I give it a vigorous buffing with a soft cloth - but you'll be glad to hear it only gets better and better from here.
Pay attention to LGS's method and give it a try. I think you'll find you see oil finishes are much more flexible than you previously thought.
Cheers
Phil"Come sit down beside me" I said to myself, and although it didn't make sense,
I held my own hand as a small sign of trust, and together I sat on the fence.
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21st November 2012, 04:11 PM #12
Phil,
That's preeetty! The grain just jumps at you and the smoothness and gloss are just it and a bit.
Regards,
Rob
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21st November 2012, 06:03 PM #13
Yes, you can use EEE as it's essentially a cut n' polish for wood finishes.
Grade equivalent of the average automotive cut 'n polish is about 1000 grit, but most are designed to break down with use to give a finer finish (the ones labelled as a 'scuffing compound' are to assist in getting new paint to stick to old paint and they don't break down)...or if you want to go straight to a fine finish, then get one that says it's good for swirl removing - about 3000 grit and typically labelled 'ultra fine' or similar.
They do double duty as scratch removers for plastic visors, too!
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22nd November 2012, 08:34 PM #14
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I actually went to Oliver's down in James street to have dinner with my partner, then it was pretty pack at that time, they're using tuart board for their dining table I reckon? ( problem with me is wherever I go, the first thing I look is the timber they used on their table and finishing they use, I realized its actually oil finished and its feels so good.. Without the plasticky feels that lacquer does)
I'm still working on he structure on my large buffet, once it done ill post a new thread on big things!
Nice box btw, the Scandinavian oil is actually expensive than tung oil.
But the Scandinavian oil that I bought is feast and Watson, it got resin blended in it? Is it normal?
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22nd November 2012, 08:37 PM #15
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