Searching for a foolproof finish

[Wongo]

I am a big fan of the poly/linseed oil/tung oil mix finish. It is so easy to apply like most oil finishes but it is stronger because of the polyurethane in it. I had just made this little table for the in-laws. Here is how I did it.

Sanding: it is very important to put in the best effort in sanding. A smooth surface gives a smooth finish, it is as simple as that. Like uncle Neil said you get what you deserve.

Sealer: I always use a 50% poly / 50% turpentine mix to seal the wood. Do not flood the wood or it will be take a long time to dry.


Sand the piece with some fine sand papers. Here I use 800 grit and 1000 grit wet and dry.


Clean up with a clean cloth.


Mix equal part of polyu, linseed oil and tung oil.



Rub the finish on. Leave it for a few minutes and rub off any excess completely with a clean cloth. Repeat the process 2 to 3 times.





Polish the whole piece with Uncle Neil's magical wax and it is done.


Do try.

[Wongo]

It is red cedar and jarrah.

[pal]

Hi wongo,
the finish comes up a treat table looks great will definately try your brew
regards
pal

[Ron Dunn]

That table is NICE.

I thought your recent coffee table was a bit chunky ... but this table looks beautifully proportioned in my eyes.

[artme]

My first reaction


My second reaction


and this if Joe Public can use it and prove you right.


Nice table and lamp BTW!

[old_picker]

mmm
i just went and bought some danish yesterday
i bet yours didnt cost as much
by the way where did you get the tung oil??

[jerryc]

Wongo,

I also use the "one third finish" but with spar varnish instead of polyurethane. My reason is that spar varnish is more flexible and can stand temperature extremes better than polyurethane.
Wood movement can fracture polyurethane more easily than spar varnish.Also spar varnish gives a slightly darker finish that mimics ageing. I say this so people who are new to the idea can choose the mixture and not feel poly is the only way to go.
One experiment I'm conducting with "one third finish" is to be as rough as possible. I am building a tool cabinet for the workshop so I felt this was the time to push the limits and see what happens.
I have flooded parts of the wood with the finish and then roughly pushed it around with a circular motion not worrying too much about an even finish. Although the wood was well finished to start with, I left sawdust in the corners and wiped over it. I dropped the cloth on the unclean floor of the workshop, picked it up and used it without even shaking it. I used gloves but they were glazier's gloves that I use in the garden. I grabbed the cabinet on parts that had finish applied and moved it around. Because I use thin coats there were no finger prints. True I did the same as you suggest and used another cloth to burnish the finish. I have used this finish for some years now but never have I thought to see what abuse it stands up to when applying it. Naturally I don't advocate this treatment as a standard way to finish a piece of work, but just want people to see what you have already said.
One thing I should point out with care is that I am an advocate of several thin coats rather than a few thick coats. Might take a fraction longer but the effort is worth it.

It really is a foolproof finish.

Jerry

Eveeryone is entitled to my opinion

[munruben]

mmm
by the way where did you get the tung oil??

Bunnings or any hardware store should carry it in stock.

[jow104]

Wongo, I think I have read somewhere that boiled linseed oil will yellow with time as against basic linseed.
However others may say I have got it the wrong way round.

[echnidna]

all linseed oil yellows John.

Boiled oil is unnecessary as the poly contains sufficient driers

[old_picker]

"Rub the finish on. Leave it for a few minutes and rub off any excess completely with a clean cloth. Repeat the process 2 to 3 times."

how long between the coats??

[jerryc]

Wongo,

Just noticed that you use linseed oil and tung oil. Since both perform the same or at least similar functions I'm interested in why you use both? I did say in my previous post that I use the one third finish. What I use is a varnish--turps--linseed oil combination. The turps helps the mix to penetrate the wood.

Jerry

Everyone is entitled to my opinion

[Wongo]

by the way where did you get the tung oil??

Picker, you can get tung oil from Bunnings and Timbecon.

http://www.timbecon.com.au/productse...chBox=tung+oil

I got mine from Anagote timber.

It is 1L for $35. I think.

"Rub the finish on. Leave it for a few minutes and rub off any excess completely with a clean cloth. Repeat the process 2 to 3 times."

how long between the coats??

I would say 20 hours.

BUT...

I put 1 coat on Saturday morning, another coat on Saturday night and I waxed it on Sunday morning. So maybe 12 hours is OK. When you feel it you will be able to tell it is ready for another coat.

Wongo, I think I have read somewhere that boiled linseed oil will yellow with time as against basic linseed.
However others may say I have got it the wrong way round.

Jon, it doesn't bother me.


Thanks for the comments people


Thanks for the read Jerry.

[Wongo]

Wongo,
Just noticed that you use linseed oil and tung oil. Since both perform the same or at least similar functions I'm interested in why you use both? I did say in my previous post that I use the one third finish. What I use is a varnish--turps--linseed oil combination. The turps helps the mix to penetrate the wood.

I am not a guru in finishing. I use all 3 because Sam Maloof uses it and I see not reason to change a wining formula. Sam is my role model.

[jerryc]

Wongo,
You gave a clear illustration at the start of this thread on a foolproof finish. What I have tried to do is support your good work with a little more research and I came up with this info. Hope it will be of help to others searching for an easy solution to finishing.

Sam Maloof finish
Pros:
Easy, Virtually foolproof to apply
No rips/runs/sags
No dust nibs
Easy to mix your own.
Satin sheen
hand-rubbed finish
Penetrates into the wood fibres.

Cons;
Requires many coats to get reasonable depth and protection
Lengthy application time for large surfaces.

The
Sam Maloof finish consists of two finishes; a varnish/oil mixture followed by an oil/varnish/beeswax mixture. The first mixture is applied until you are satisfied with the build-up.
Then you apply the second finish, which does require some elbow grease. There are two mixture one recipes.
Mixture one version one is the traditional Sam Maloof finish. It takes a while to dry -- leave for 24hours between coats.
Mixture one version two is an oft used finish that provides a little better penetration, is easier to apply and dries faster.

Mixture one recipe (version one)

Mix equal parts of following.;

Boiled linseed oil
raw tung oil
Semi gloss urethane varnish

Mixture one recipe ( version two easier to apply, better penetration, dries faster.

Mix equal parts of th following;

Turps or other suitable thinner. Can use less or more thinner to choice as it's purpose is to help finish penetrate wood
Varnish of choice
Oil. Either boiled linseed oil or tung oil

Mixture two recipe
Mix two handfuls of shredded beeswax to equal parts of boiled linseed oil and raw tung oil. Heat the mixture carefully . (This part can be a problem. I have made beeswax polish without heat using natural turpentine) However I feel a bought wax might be safer.

Application

Apply three or four coats of mixture one. Let oil sit on surface for 5-10 minutes. Or you can sand the mixture into wood using 400-600 wet and dry. Remove excess oil with clean cloth/paper towel. Allow at least twenty four hours drying time between each coat. Apply two to three coats of mixture two. Rub each coat into surface very vigorously.

We appear to be using the two versions.


Jerry

Everyone is entitled to my opinion