Mix of Kauri and Vic Ash fireplace to finish ?

[Young'n]

Having just stripped 100 years of paint off an Edwardian fireplace suround I may have to replace some of the side timber and it was suggested that since kauri was not available, then I should use Vic Ash..

Am new to this game so my question is two fold..

1. What finish/stain/oil etc would be best to achieve a deep mahogany type finish
2. and is there a method to match the different timber, or should I stick with original damaged timber and be happy with the battered look

Cheers

[ozwinner]

Having just stripped 100 years of paint off an Edwardian fireplace suround I may have to replace some of the side timber and it was suggested that since kauri was not available, then I should use Vic Ash..

Am new to this game so my question is two fold..

1. What finish/stain/oil etc would be best to achieve a deep mahogany type finish
2. and is there a method to match the different timber, or should I stick with original damaged timber and be happy with the battered look

Cheers

Hi and welcome

I wouldnt use Vic Ash because the colour and grain texture difference is extreme, you may as well use Red Gum. Just kidding.

The only thing that looks like Kauri is, you guessed it is Kauri, although Hoop Pine is a pretty close match, and still available.
If its Kauri, why do you want to stain it? :confused:

Cheers, Allan

[zitan]

I don't know if Queensland Kauri is still available in Australia, but the Fijian type is freely found over here. Other than that you should go looking through demolition yards for spare stock.

I agree with Oz. Kauri is such a beautiful timber (the only softwood I know of that ages to a warm golden tone).

I got no idea about dye (oil or water based) stains - never used them.

[JupiterCreek]

Hoop pine... that stuff's unobtainable here in Adelaide... with one notable exception. (

If anyone know where to buy straight flat pieces 250x45x whatever length in SA I'd love to know. Same goes for kauri and Tassie Blackwood.

[ubeaut]

Use Damar Minyak it is about as close as you will get to kauri and will blend in easily to give an almost reamless repair. I have used it a number of times for repairs to kauri furniture.

It is reasonably readily available from most good timber yards. Don't even bother looking for it at Bunnies. Your best bet will be Australian Furniture Timbers in Plummer Rd Port Melb.

Under no circumstanced try to blend vic ash with the kauri, it would be a disaster. You would be fre better to leave it in its original state even if it is battered.

The traditional finish for a fire surround of that vintage would be french polish (shellac). If you wish to keep it in an original state and keep the possible antique value of the piece then this is the only thing to use. The kauri was often chemically dyed with condies crystals or potasium bichromate to give walnut and mahogany colours.

You would be best to use a conventional turps or oil based wiping stain under the shellac.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers - Neil

Attached is one I prepared earlier.
The top section of a 12' high monster from historic Plaistow Homestead in Newstead, Vic. The bottom and centre section had been badly burnt in a fire this section only required about 20% of it to be renewed. Can't find the other photos.

[Goldy]

In regards to jupitercreek, Australian Timbers stock Tassie Blackwood.

[Young'n]

Many thanks..

one last one... If I stay with the original timber I'll need to repair a couple of decent holes of approx 1 inch x 1/2 inch in the strips down the side of the fireplace... in combination with a french polish finish, what's the best way / products / fill etc to repair with..

I've heard that French polishing is a tricky business... is it recommended for us new young players to tackle?

Cheers
Mark

[zitan]

Hi Young'n;

Forget about the term "French polishing", rather, just think of it as wiping on some 'muddy water' & letting it dry. First time I "French polished" anything was for a complete restoration of a 1935 Singer sewing machine cabinet (when I was 17-18). Made every mistake imaginable but shellac is such a forgiving finish that any mistakes can be eliminated with just a few minutes effort. IMHO polys & lacquers are much harder to use because you're trying to do too many things in so few 'coats' - make a serious mistake with these & it's recourse to toxic methylene chloride or phenols.

Softwoods make "French polishing" all the more easier because you can forget about having fill the grain. Knowing when to finish finishing is one thing you can only learn through experience though. In that sense, think of it as a diminishing returns exercise. As a first timer you'll spend what seems like forever getting the finish 'just so'. But second time & subsequent you'll find you can get the same or better finish with less effort. If you can break the project down to small 'mini projects', start with the least obvious or visible pieces. By the time you get to the most important parts you're less likely to make errors.

For filling those holes, they're too big for any filler other than wood. If you want it to be indistinguishable, you'll have to use kauri inlay. Nonetheless, if they have any regular pattern to them you might do better by inlaying contrasting timbers & turn them into a decorative feature.

zitan