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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Perth hills
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    Default Tablesaw Feeding

    Hi all,

    I have a specific question for all those experienced users regarding feed technique and stance.

    I've read as many books as I can get my hands on, all the websites I can find (lots) and many forum posts yet when I can to rip a 600x200mm piece of 9mm mdf in half yesterday, I was still not exactly sure of the safest technique.

    Attached are two scenarios:

    Scenario 1 shows me standing on the left side (non-fence side) of the blade with my left hand applying pressure to keep the stock against the fence. my right hand feeds the woork through the blade.

    Scenario 2 shows me standing behind the fence on the right side of the blade. Featherboard applying fencward pressure. Right hand feeding stock with hands/push block.

    Which of these, is the correct technuique? If any? Which technique do you use?

    It's this sort of fine, yet basic detail that authors and so caleld "experts" leave out of their books. The two demonstrations I've seen had one bloke pulling the work from the back of the saw and the other using an offcut as a pushstick


    I've attached the images and also (trying) the powerpoint so you can move the little symbols if need be.
    Cheers,

    Adam

    ------------------------------------------

    I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia

  2. #2
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    Default

    You would have to be a spaz to push the timber through in most of your drawings.

    Just do what ever feels comfortable..
    With push sticks of course.

    Al :confused:

  3. #3
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    Default

    Al,

    Thats why I'm asking, I dont want to be a spaz, I want to do it right.
    Cheers,

    Adam

    ------------------------------------------

    I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    East Bentleigh, Melbourne, Vic
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    Default

    What Ozwinner has said - never, ever, go around and pull stuff through.

    I always aim to have my hands a minimum of 100mm from the blade; never push directly in line with the blade - the timber could crack/split, a push stick could slip, etc. In any case once the stock has engaged the blade, it shouldn't need any pressure to hold it against the fence.

    Similarly, I always stand anywhere but directly behind the blase or the stock - if it kicks back - smile for the camera!

    Cheers!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    Melbourne - Outer East Foothills
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    Default

    Scenario 1.

    Standing to left of blade, left hand puts pressure towards the fence, right hand feeds timber.

    And in Tassie, other hand holds beer can.

    Whatever you do, just don't stand behind the timber :eek:
    If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon
    In any case once the stock has engaged the blade, it shouldn't need any pressure to hold it against the fence.
    Cheers!
    Really?
    Cheers,

    Adam

    ------------------------------------------

    I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia

  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LineLefty
    Really?
    Just as well you asked isnt it..??

    Al

  8. #8
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    Sep 2003
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    Default

    I use the attitude that if u use common sence, and use the correct aids, like push sticks, feather boards etc, and u should stand in a manner that is comfortable and lets u feel natural and in control, then u should b fine. I think that standing to far off to the side makes it feel unsafe and unnatural..... Each to their own!
    It's Ripping Time!!!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    Default

    Scenario 1.
    My power switch is on the left side of the saw so I don't have to worry about timber in the cut line if I want to shut down quick.

    My hands don't go within a foot of the blade.
    (get bitten once and you soon lose the 100mm is safe enough mentality)
    Sometimes I use 2 pushsticks,
    1 for feeding the other to hold timber against the fence
    I don't reach past the spinning blade to hold or retrieve timber

    I always stand with left foot forward and right foot behind so If I fall over it should be away from the saw.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  10. #10
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    Default

    Bob,

    So when you're pushing the stock through the blade, where is the right hand/push stick? on the fence side or the other?
    Cheers,

    Adam

    ------------------------------------------

    I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia

  11. #11
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    Default

    I always use 2 push sticks too, same a Bob, mine are 600mm long.
    You should see the nicks in them..
    600mm is as close as I want to get to high speed tungsten....

    Al :eek:

  12. #12
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    Default

    on the fence side.
    Its got a rounded heel and I don't hold it against my palm. If you use a thin straight stick nestled against the heel of your palm a kickback may force the stick into your palm through your skin.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  13. #13
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    Default

    Get a bandsaw lefty, less chance of kickback.

    Al

  14. #14
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    Default

    The bloke that agisted his TS with me also lent me a bandsaw. A tiny 7.5 inch ryobi jobbie. Not much good other than cutting up pine shapes for kiddies toys.

    I doubt I'll ask it to resaw this Karri I've got lying around.

    Bob,

    Far be it from me to contradict you, but are you not reaching over the blade as you push the stock through? You're OK with this?
    Cheers,

    Adam

    ------------------------------------------

    I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
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    197

    Default

    Lefty, Scenario 1 is correct, theirs not much to add. The demo you seen with a bloke pulling it out the back is correct, its called "tailing out" common in cabinet shops. The other thing is ripping. most fences have a secondry fence that can be slid back and foward. when ripping solid timber slide the secondry fence back so it finishes where the blade stops. I prefer it at the center of the blade, others where it finishes, some saw mills like it right at the start, it stops any chance of the timber binding. push stick is a must but not the long plastic crap that comes with a saw, and using 2 at the same time is dangerous:eek: as far as im concerned. and my rule on hand distance from the blade is around 20mm (good for me, but i dont expect others to follow) some have said 100mm - to far away, you lose control to easy. the other issue is blade height and that is a whole thread in its self
    Blowin in the Wind

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