Mirror Finish - Which varnish should I use? (etc)

[icor1031]

Varnish, lacquer - whatever... What product should I use, that isn't super expensive, to get a mirror finish on my latex-painted box?

Also, I read on a forum that Polyurethane isn't great for a mirror finish. They suggested Rockhard, but that product only has one review. I'm afraid to try it.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?117177-In-Desperate-Need-Of-Help-On-Polyurethane-Mirror-Finish!

(I am USA, if it matters.)

Thanks.

[LGS]

Minwax Wipe on Poly (Gloss) should fit the bill. Here's one I prepared earlier.

[Master Splinter]

Is the existing paint a mirror finish? If not, you've got some sanding to do, otherwise the first umpteen coats of varnish will be filling imperfections in the paint finish before you start building your varnish layer.

Make sure that whatever finish you use is compatible with the paint; putting on a high solvent finish such as acrylic lacquer could cause lifting or bubbling of the paint.

Whatever finish you use, the secret is in sanding; with my favourite film-forming coating (acrylic lacquer for cars) that means sanding to 2000 grit then using a buffing compound for the final gloss shine.

[icor1031]

That's too diffuse. I want something like this:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...d-dscn0188.jpg

Thanks!

Minwax Wipe on Poly (Gloss) should fit the bill. Here's one I prepared earlier.

[icor1031]

Not yet, I just put on my 4th coat of paint. It's too thin to sand, I think I need 2 or 3 more.
Then, I have sandpaper all the way down to 2k.

Is the existing paint a mirror finish? If not, you've got some sanding to do, otherwise the first umpteen coats of varnish will be filling imperfections in the paint finish before you start building your varnish layer.

Make sure that whatever finish you use is compatible with the paint; putting on a high solvent finish such as acrylic lacquer could cause lifting or bubbling of the paint.

Whatever finish you use, the secret is in sanding; with my favourite film-forming coating (acrylic lacquer for cars) that means sanding to 2000 grit then using a buffing compound for the final gloss shine.

[Robson Valley]

If your "latex" paint is the same thing as what a lot of people call water-based "acrylic", here's a possibility:
Liquitex Artist's Acrylic Gloss Varnish. Most art stores will have it. 8 oz bottle.
Milky looking going on but sets up clear and _very_ shiny.
I use a lot of it over raw western red cedar and/or other surfaces of wood carvings that have been painted with artists' acrylics.
First coat looks just kind of sort of OK. Second coat is the real surprise = done.

[Master Splinter]

Yer. If 'latex' = 'water based, slap it on your walls or skirtings' paint, I'd give it a good sanding...all the way to bare timber, then start again using an automotive paint system.

[Hermit]

I'd go with LGS's suggestion of MinWax Wipe-on Poly, multiple coats rubbed with 1200G between coats, then after the last coat rub with consecutively finer paper to the gloss you're after.
As mentioned by Master Splinter, the secret is in the sanding.

For super-fine grits, Google 'Micro-Mesh'. It comes in consecutively finer grits up to 12000G and is capable of taking a surface to about the same gloss as clear acrylic sheet.
See here: Micro-Mesh NC-78-1 Acrylic Restoral Kit | The Sandpaper Man

Otherwise, go to 2000G+ then apply a coat of wax and buff.

[Dangermandave]

I second the micro mesh recommendation this stuff is awesome, Also worth a try is 3M Trizact I have some of these in 1500,3000,5000 & they produce an awesome finish, I would say better than a mirror finish!

[Master Splinter]

Or once you get to 1500, switch to automotive buffing compound - this is designed to break down into finer grits in use, so it effectively provides 1500 + grits in the one application.

The biggest secret is having a paint that is designed to be compounded this way - it needs a hard finish so it can be smoothed out/worn flat.